The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs; Exeter Road
It is not to be supposed that Hazlitt was insensible to the dreariness
of the spot. ‘Here, _even_ here,’ he says, as though the dolour of the
place had come home to him, ‘with a few old authors I can manage to get
through the summer or winter months without ever knowing what it is to
feel _ennui_. They sit with me at breakfast; they walk out with me
before dinner. After a long walk through unfrequented tracts, after
starting the hare from the fern, or hearing the wing of the raven
rustling above my head, or being greeted by the woodman’s “stern
good-night,” as he strikes into his narrow homeward path, I can “take
mine ease at mine inn,” beside the blazing hearth, and shake hands with
Signor Orlando Friscobaldo, as the oldest acquaintance I have.’
His _Farewell to Essay Writing_ was written here 20th February 1828. He
had long given up the intemperance of former years, and cultivated
literature on copious tea-drinking. ‘As I quaff my libations of tea in
a morning,’ he says, ‘I love to watch the clouds sailing from the west,
and fancy that “the spring comes slowly up this way.” In this hope,
while “fields are dank, and ways are mire,” I follow the same direction
to a neighbouring wood, where, having gained the dry, level greensward,
I can see my way for a mile before me, closed in on each side by
copse-wood, and ending in a point of light more or less brilliant, as
the day is bright or cloudy.’ And so this harbinger of our own literary
neurotics continues, dropping into a morbid introspective strain,
pulling up his soul, like a plant, by the roots, to see how it is
growing, and babbling to the world, between the jewel-work of his
literature, of his follies and his unrest. Strange, that this wiry
pedestrian, this apostle of fresh air, should be of the same dough of
which the degenerates of our time are compounded.
XXIV
It was here, however, that one of the most thrilling episodes of the
road was enacted in the old days. The Mail from Exeter to London had
left Salisbury on the night of 20th October 1816, and proceeded in the
usual way for several miles, when what was thought to be a large calf
was seen trotting beside the horses in the darkness. The team soon
became extremely nervous and fidgety, and as the inn was approached they
could scarcely be kept under control.
[Sidenote: _AN ESCAPED LIONESS_]
At the moment when the coachman pulled up to deliver his bags, one of
the leading horses was suddenly seized by the supposed calf. The horses
kicked and plunged violently, and it was with difficulty the driver
could prevent the coach from being overturned. The guard drew his
blunderbuss and was about to shoot the mysterious assailant when several
men, accompanied by a large mastiff, appeared in sight. The foremost,
seeing that the guard was about to fire, pointed a pistol at his head,
swearing that he would be shot if the beast was killed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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