The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs; Exeter Road
The fame of the affair was great and lasting. That coaching specialist,
James Pollard, drew, and R. Havell engraved, a plate showing the
dramatic scene, which was dedicated to Thomas Hasker, Superintendent of
His Majesty’s Mails. In it you see Joseph Pike, the guard, rising to
shoot the very heraldic-looking lioness, and the passengers encouraging
him in the background, from the safe retreat of the first-floor windows.
It will be observed that this is apparently the lioness’s first spring,
and yet those passengers are already upstairs: at once a striking
testimony to their agility and a warranty of the exquisite truth of the
saying that fear lends wings to the feet.
XXV
Salisbury spire and the distant city come with the welcome surprise of a
Promised Land after these bleak downs. Even three miles away the
unenclosed wilds are done, and we drop continuously from Three Mile
Hill, down, down, down to the lowlands on a smooth and uninterrupted
road, to where the trees and the houses can be distinguished, nestling
around and below the graceful cathedral, a long way yet ahead. It is
coming thus with that needle-pointed spire, so long and so prominently
in view, that the story of its having been built to its extraordinary
height of 404 feet for the purpose of guiding the strayed footsteps of
travellers across the solitudes of Salisbury Plain may readily be
believed.
Salisbury wears a bland and cheerful appearance, and has an air of
modernity that quite belies its age. Few places in England have so
well-ascertained an origin. We can fix the very year, six hundred and
eighty years ago, when it began to be, and yet, although there is the
cathedral to prove its age, with the Poultry Cross, and very many
ancient houses happily still standing, it has a general air of anything
but mediævalism. This curious feeling that strikes every visitor is
really owing to the generous and well-ordered plan on which the city was
originally laid out; broad streets being planned in geometrical
precision, and the blocks of houses built in regular squares.
That phenomenally simple-minded person, Tom Pinch, thought Salisbury ‘a
very desperate sort of place; an exceedingly wild and dissipated
city’--a view of it which is not shared by any one else. I wish I could
tell you to which inn it was that he resorted to have dinner, and to
await the arrival of Martin. A coaching inn, of course, for Martin came
by coach from London. But whether it was the ‘White Hart,’ or the ‘Three
Swans’ (which, alas! is no longer an inn), or the ‘King’s Arms,’ or the
‘George,’ is more than I or any one else can determine.
[Sidenote: _NEW SARUM_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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