The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Exeter Road: the story of the west of England highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs; Exeter Road
It must be obvious how exquisitely fitted, both by reason of its
situation and circumstances, ‘Winterslow Hut’ is for the novelist’s use,
and that, had he explored it before, that wild spot would have found a
place in the pages of _Martin Chuzzlewit_, together with detailed
references to some of Salisbury’s old coaching inns, of which there were
many, this being a meeting-place of several roads, besides being on the
great highway to the West.
[Sidenote: _VANISHED INNS_]
So far back as 1786 there were three coaches passing through Salisbury
on their way from London to Exeter, daily. Firstly, the ‘Post Coach’
every morning at eight o’clock, with the up coach to London every
afternoon at four o’clock, Saturdays excepted. Secondly, a mail coach,
specially advertised as carrying a guard all the way, every morning at
ten o’clock, Sundays excepted, and the up mail every night at ten
o’clock, Saturdays excepted. Thirdly, a ‘Diligence,’ which passed
through every night about eight o’clock, the up coach at twelve,
midnight. All these coaches stopped, and were horsed, at the ‘White
Hart.’ In 1797 there were five coaches to and from London, daily, and
three on alternate days; and three waggons, two every day, the other on
Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.
In those times, when highwaymen were numerous and daring and travellers
appropriately anxious, stage-coach proprietors in Salisbury advertised
the fact of their conveyances being provided with an armed guard, and
that any one making an attempt at robbery would be handed over to
justice. But, notwithstanding such bold announcements, all the friends
and relatives of citizens daring the journey to London used to assemble
on the London road and tearfully watch the coaches as they toiled up
Bishop Down and over the crest of Three Mile Hill, into the Unknown. The
spot is still called ‘Weeping Cross.’
Of the old Salisbury coaching inns, a goodly number have been either
pulled down or converted to other purposes. The ‘King’s Head,’ the
‘Maidenhead,’ the ‘Sun,’ the ‘Vine,’ the ‘Three Tuns,’ and others have
entirely disappeared; and the ‘Spread Eagle,’ the ‘Lamb,’ ‘Three Cups,’
‘Antelope,’ and the ‘George’--where Pepys stayed and was
overcharged--have become shops or private residences; while the
beautiful old ‘Three Swans’ was converted into a Temperance Hotel five
years ago.
There is a passage in Sir William Knighton’s Diary under date of 1832,
which, although written without any special emphasis, is highly
picturesque and informative on the subject of travelling at that time.
It gives in one phrase a glimpse of the waiting-room which was a feature
of all-coaching inns, and in another shows that it was possible to
bargain for fares. Only in this instance the bargain was not struck.
He had come at half-past one in the morning into Salisbury by a
cross-country coach, and waiting for the arrival of the mail to Exeter,
‘sat quietly by the fire in the common dirty room appropriated to coach
passengers.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account