The Expedition of Humphry ClinkerSmollett, T. (Tobias)
General
The Expedition of Humphry Clinker
Smollett, T. (Tobias)
Epistolary fiction; Great Britain -- Fiction; Travelers -- Fiction
In the neighbourhood of Haddington, there is a gentleman’s house, in
the building of which, and the improvements about it, he is said to have
expended forty thousand pounds: but I cannot say I was much pleased
with either the architecture or the situation; though it has in front
a pastoral stream, the banks of which are laid out in a very agreeable
manner. I intended to pay my respects to Lord Elibank, whom I had
the honour to know at London many years ago. He lives in this part of
Lothian; but was gone to the North, on a visit--You have often heard
me mention this nobleman, whom I have long revered for his humanity and
universal intelligence, over and above the entertainment arising
from originality of his character--At Musselburgh, however, I had the
good-fortune to drink tea with my old friend Mr Cardonel; and at his
house I met with Dr C--, the parson of the parish, whose humour and
conversation inflamed me with a desire of being better acquainted with
his person--I am not at all surprised that these Scots make their way in
every quarter of the globe.
This place is but four miles from Edinburgh, towards which we proceeded
along the sea-shore, upon a firm bottom of smooth sand, which the tide
had left uncovered in its retreat--Edinburgh, from this avenue, is not
seen to much advantage--We had only an imperfect view of the Castle
and upper parts of the town, which varied incessantly according to the
inflexions of the road, and exhibited the appearance of detached spires
and turrets, belonging to some magnificent edifice in ruins. The palace
of Holyrood house stands on the left, as you enter the Canon-gate--This
is a street continued from hence to the gate called Nether Bow, which is
now taken away; so that there is no interruption for a long mile, from
the bottom to the top of the hill on which the castle stands in a most
imperial situation--Considering its fine pavement, its width, and the
lofty houses on each side, this would be undoubtedly one of the noblest
streets in Europe, if an ugly mass of mean buildings, called the
Lucken-Booths, had not thrust itself, by what accident I know not, into
the middle of the way, like Middle-Row in Holborn. The city stands upon
two hills, and the bottom between them; and, with all its defects, may
very well pass for the capital of a moderate kingdom.--It is full of
people, and continually resounds with the noise of coaches and other
carriages, for luxury as well as commerce. As far as I can perceive,
here is no want of provisions--The beef and mutton are as delicate
here as in Wales; the sea affords plenty of good fish; the bread is
remarkably fine; and the water is excellent, though I’m afraid not
in sufficient quantity to answer all the purposes of cleanliness and
convenience; articles in which, it must be allowed, our fellow-subjects
are a little defective--The water is brought in leaden pipes from a
mountain in the neighbourhood, to a cistern on the Castle-hill, from
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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