"_31st._--Started on a short excursion up the country, and slept
at Siniawan. Here I found a young Pangeran (who came from Sambas
with Mr. Hupe, a German missionary) enchained in the delights of
opium. He left Sarawak for Sambas two months since, proceeded five
hours' journey, and has since been smoking the drug and sleeping
alternately. His life passes thus: between four and five he wakes,
yawns, and smokes a pipe or two, which fits him for the labors of
taking his guitar and playing for an hour. Then follows a slightly
tasted meal, a pipe or two succeeds, and content and merriment for
another hour or two. About eight o'clock the gentleman reclines, and
pipe succeeds pipe till, toward daylight, he sinks intoxicated and
stupid on his pillow, to wake up again in due course to play again the
same part. Poor wretch! two months of this life of dissipation have
reduced him to a shadow--two more months will consign him to his grave.
"_Feb. 1st._--Started after breakfast, and paddled against a strong
current past Tundong, and, some distance above, left the main stream
and entered the branch to the right, which is narrower, and rendered
difficult of navigation by the number of fallen trees which block up
the bed, and which sometimes obliged us to quit our boat, and remove
all the kajang covers, so as to enable us to haul the boat under the
huge trunks. The main stream was rapid and turbid, swollen by a fresh,
and its increase of volume blocked up the waters of the tributary, so
as to render the current inconsiderable. The Dyaks have thrown several
bridges across the rivers, which they effect with great ingenuity; but
I was surprised on one of these bridges to observe the traces of the
severe flood which we had about a fortnight since. The water on that
occasion must have risen twenty feet perpendicularly, and many of the
trees evidently but recently fallen, are the effects of its might. The
walk to Rat, or Ra-at, is about two miles along a decent path. Nothing
can be more picturesque than the hill and the village. The former is
a huge lump (I think of granite), almost inaccessible, with bold bare
sides, rising out of a rich vegetation at the base, and crowned with
trees. The height is about 500 feet; and about a hundred feet lower is
a shoulder of the hill on which stands the eagle-nest-like village of
Ra-at, the ascent to which is like climbing by a ladder up the side
of a house. This is one of the dwelling-places of the Sow Dyaks,
a numerous but dispersed tribe. Their chief, or Orang Kaya, is an
imbecile old man, and the virtual headship is in the hands of Nimok,
of whom more hereafter. Our friends seemed pleased to see us, and Nimok
apologized for so few of his people being present, as the harvest was
approaching; but being anxious to give a feast on the occasion of my
first visit to their tribe, it was arranged that to-morrow I should
shoot deer, and the day following return to the mountain. The views
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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