"_18th._--Got ashore by seven o'clock to start for the waterfall;
till nine we were detained by want of horses, but after much trouble
the animals were procured, and off we started. Our party consisted
of three doctors (him of the fortification, a German gentleman,
Treacher, and Theylingen) and myself, with native guides. The road
lay for a short way along the beach, then struck into the thicket,
and we commenced a gradual ascent. The scenery was most striking and
lovely; glades and glens, grassy knolls and slopes, with scattered
trees, and the voice of a hidden river which reached our ears from
a deep valley on the left hand. Proceeding thus for some distance,
we at length plunged into the wood, and descending a short space,
found ourselves by the sides of the stream below the waterfall. Here,
breakfast being finished, we all stripped to our trowsers, entered the
water, and advanced along the bed of the river to the fall. The banks
on either hand, steep and woody, prevented any other mode of approach,
and the stream, rushing down and falling over huge rocks, rendered the
only available one any thing but easy. At times we were up to the arms,
then crawling out and stealing with care over wet and slippery stones,
now taking advantage of a few yards of dry ground, and ever and anon
swimming a pool to shorten an unpleasant climb. In this manner we
advanced about half a mile, when the fall became visible; thick trees
and hanging creepers intervened; between and through the foliage we
first saw the water glancing and shining in its descent. The effect
was perfect. After some little further and more difficult progress,
we stood beneath the fall, of about 150 feet sheer descent. The wind
whirled in eddies, and carried the sleet over us, chilling our bodies,
but unable to damp our admiration. The basin of the fall is part of a
circle, with the outlet forming a funnel; bare cliffs, perpendicular on
all sides, form the upper portion of the vale, and above and below is
all the luxuriant vegetation of the East; trees, arched and interlaced,
and throwing down long fantastic roots and creepers, shade the scene,
and form one of the richest sylvan prospects I have ever beheld. The
water, foaming and flashing, and then escaping amid huge gray stones
on its troubled course--clear and transparent, expanding into tranquil
pools, with the flickering sunshine through the dense foliage--all
combine to form at scene such as Tasso has described. [10]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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