The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian TurkestanKemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
History
The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian Turkestan
Kemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Korea -- Description and travel; Manchuria (China) -- Description and travel
We were much pleased with the way our carriages and corridors were
cleaned out daily while we were stopping at stations. A little army of
women swarmed into the train directly it stopped, provided with buckets
of hot water, and they washed out the whole place quite efficaciously
and with great rapidity. It is really much better to have oilcloth on
the floors rather than carpet, for the sake of cleanliness. The dusting
of the carriages was done every morning by the attendant after he had
made the beds, and he kept them quite nice and tidy. The one thing that
provoked me through all our travelling in Russia, however, was the fact
that the attendants had keys which opened all the bolts, so that they
could come in whenever they choose, and the art of knocking before
entering was unknown to most of them. They generally seemed to select the
most inappropriate moment for coming in, when one was either dressing
or undressing; but fortunately all travelling tends to blunt one’s
susceptibilities on such points.
The ninth day after leaving Kharbin we reached Kinel, the next station
before reaching Samara, the real junction for the Turkestan line. There
was only a small margin of time allowed for changing train there, so
we decided it was better to have to wait unduly long at Kinel, rather
than run the risk of missing our train and waiting twenty-four hours
for the next one. We got out at a most dreary hour, which seems to be
rather frequently the case on Russian railways, considering how few are
the trains; it was between one and two o’clock in the morning, and our
baggage was deposited in the ladies’ waiting-room, where we found the
only sofa filled with babies. A considerable number of passengers had
their luggage in the adjoining restaurant, where they slept or smoked.
The atmosphere was decidedly trying, so I spent most of the time pacing
up and down the platform, watching the dawn grow, for even at that early
hour there was a broad belt of orange light lying along the horizon. At
fitful intervals one and another of the passengers would come out for a
breath of fresh air, or order drinks from the somnolent attendants. It
appeared to be the natural thing for people to be spending the night at
the station, though no train disturbed the peace of the place for several
hours. Not one of the officials seemed able to speak or understand any
language but Russian, so I addressed a young German tourist to ask for
information. He told me that there were no sleeping berths on the summer
trains for Tashkent, the “wagon lits” service being suspended on the
first of May, but that we should find the ordinary carriages thoroughly
comfortable, the second class quite as good as the first (in which we
proved him to be correct), for all the trains are arranged with a view
to night travelling. He also told us that instead of the journey taking
five days (as we had been informed when we made inquiries at Peking),
it would only take three.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account