The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian TurkestanKemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
History
The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian Turkestan
Kemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Korea -- Description and travel; Manchuria (China) -- Description and travel
The first day we travelled through a vast cultivated plain, and the
landscape was dotted over with a sprinkling of houses and many trees.
The children brought forget-me-nots and anemones to sell at the wayside
stations; but on this line the towns and hamlets are fewer than on the
one we had just left. Though the land seemed so uninhabited the train
always seemed full, and the passengers made themselves thoroughly at
home. The second-class travellers, who were going any distance, put on
fresh clothes, the ladies dressed in _négligé_ costumes like tea-gowns.
One amazingly stout lady put on a muslin gown over a pink slip, and
looked just like an animated pin-cushion. These people seem to wear all
their jewels too, when travelling. Often it was difficult to imagine
where the few people visible at the stations had sprung from, especially
to the south of Orenburg. This is one of the only two important places
between Kinel and Tashkent, and is the principal town of the province of
the same name. There are four mission stations in the Orenburg diocese,
and twenty-seven Mohammedans were baptized last year. To the south
of Orenburg the land becomes more and more desolate-looking, and the
vegetation is so sparse that one can hardly believe it is possible for
anything to subsist upon it. Perhaps that is the reason why the Kirghiz
nomadic tribes, who inhabit this territory, known as the Kirghiz Steppes,
cultivate a peculiar kind of sheep called “stéatopyge” by the French
traveller Capus. This sheep has a singularly fat tail, sometimes so long
and heavy that it has to go on a little wheeled cart, and it is this
tail which suffices to nourish the sheep in time of scarcity of herbage,
in the same way that the camel is said to live on his hump; at the end
of the winter the tail has dwindled to quite ordinary proportions.
Unfortunately we did not see any of these interesting animals (though I
once met one at Delhi), but during the following days we saw hardly any
living things but camels, much used also by the Kirghiz. The earth seemed
utterly barren, and exuded nothing but salt; hour by hour elapsed, only
varied by the interest of stopping at some wayside station, standing
alone in the desert, where samovars full of boiling water were eagerly
sought by the passengers with their various pots and kettles; the
ordinary charge for a potful is three farthings, and one wonders how
the poor creatures who supply it are able to make any living out of so
poor a harvest. Their only other wares are eggs (generally hard boiled),
bottles of milk, and baskets of oranges and lemons. The latter are always
in request for Russian tea, and fetch a better price than most things.
The peasants look most amiable, good-natured creatures, and are eminently
picturesque in their embroidered blouses of blue, green, scarlet, or
white, fastened in at the waist with a leathern belt. For the last half
century the Russians have been gradually colonising the steppes. Some
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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