The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian TurkestanKemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
History
The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian Turkestan
Kemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Korea -- Description and travel; Manchuria (China) -- Description and travel
We set off about 2 o’clock with the intention of doing fifteen miles that
evening, but it is always difficult to make a good start, and various
hindrances delayed us, such as a ferry-boat with no ferryman, and the
boat on the wrong side of the river. After a little time a woman came
slowly down to the ferry and got into the boat, so our men exhorted her
to pull herself across by means of the rope; this, however, she declined
to do, and sat patiently waiting for some one else to come and take her
across. It was only when we saw her close at hand that we discovered she
was blind, so probably that had made her afraid of crossing alone. We
became very impatient as time went on and no one appeared; I urged our
men to ford the stream higher up, which was evidently a frequented route.
However, they were too timorous, and were afraid of trying an unknown
path, so we lost much valuable time. It was only at the close of our
journey that we learned that none of the men had traversed any part of
our route previously; naturally the result was that they constantly made
mistakes and took us out of the direct route. At last, just as we were
beginning to despair, some one arrived who towed the ferry-boat over the
river, and we set off across some ploughed fields towards the foot of
the hills. It was dusk when we reached a village which our men said was
the halting-place, and only next day we discovered that they had stopped
three miles short of the right stage. We were shown into a small room
about twelve feet square, from which the women of the house were ejected
though their clothing draped the walls, and big chests further diminished
our space. All Korean houses have a small platform outside them, either
planking or made of dried mud, on which the shoes are left before any
one enters. The floors are heated from below and covered with matting,
so that chairs are considered unnecessary, and the Koreans enjoy the
heat which penetrates through the bedding on which they lie at nights.
We found it decidedly trying, despite having the door open and cots
to sleep on; but we were delighted to find the houses so much cleaner
than we expected. On the whole they look unquestionably cleaner in the
country villages than in the corresponding ones at home. It was a little
difficult to sleep, what with the heat and the noise, for the men require
two hours to get up and breakfast, and we were off by 6 o’clock.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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