Chemulpo is a cosmopolitan sort of place and has an unenviable reputation, but it has certain charming features. The first is that there is always a cool breeze; the second is that it extends up a hill-side, and from the British Consulate, perched on the edge of the cliff, there is a fine view over the harbour. From there a group of thrilled spectators watched the dramatic opening of the war between Russia and Japan. They saw the two gallant Russian warships steam out of the inner bay to meet the Japanese fleet and certain destruction. Whatever may be thought of the action, no one can fail to admire the unflinching courage—so characteristic of both armies—which dictated it. As we climbed up the hill we saw towering above us a fine red church belonging to the Roman Catholics, and we reached the mission hospital of the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel. No one who is unacquainted with Eastern seaports can understand the arduous character of the work carried on by the tiny handful of workers stationed at such places; but where could there be a greater need of that Christian demonstration which a hospital affords? Only once a month an ordained clergyman comes down to take the services; at other times the doctor has to conduct them, as well as attend to all the medical work. It is difficult for him to get an occasional holiday of even a couple of days, for at the present time the medical work among the Koreans has not progressed far in the training of assistants. The hospital is small and lacking many of the things which our ordinary general practitioners would consider essential to a hospital, but the results are nevertheless satisfactory. As we left the doctor’s house we found that a boatman had dogged our steps, and been waiting a couple of hours to secure possible passengers on the way to the S.S. _Santo Maru_, for he had no doubt seen Mr. Chiao taking our luggage from the station to the ship. We could not resist such pertinacity, and after some half-hour’s rowing in his sampan, we reached the outer harbour where the _Santo Maru_ lay. Next morning at 5 A.M. punctually we started for Dalny in heavy rain, which thickened into fog in the course of the day. The Nippon Yusen Kaisha is at present the best Japanese line of steamers, and has ships plying all round the world. The accommodation was quite comfortable, and the staff, from the captain downwards, most kind and polite to the passengers. There was an excellent Chinese _chef_ on board, and he prepared an elaborate Sunday dinner for the thirteen passengers—composed of Americans, Spaniards, Australians, and ourselves—such as would have been more suitable for Christmas Day; the menu included roast beef, turkey, and plum-pudding. Tiny birds kept haunting the ship all day long, so tame that they alighted on people’s shoulders, and sea swallows came darting into the saloon during dinner.