The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian TurkestanKemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
History
The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian Turkestan
Kemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Korea -- Description and travel; Manchuria (China) -- Description and travel
It is not only pleasanter but wiser not to have more than one solid meal
a day on the journey, and we could not help being amused at the general
collapse of a large number of passengers on the third day, evidently the
result of imprudence in this matter. In the restaurant book of food (I
can call it by no other name) there was a page of “fasting dishes” which
was, I fear, neglected. We found that a judiciously stocked luncheon
basket, added to the facilities for securing scalded milk, bread,
_excellent_ butter, and eggs, made it unnecessary to spend much time
in the restaurant car. This was not so important in the International
Sleeping Car as in the Russian State Express, for although the dining-car
was atrociously hot and crowded, the meals were served promptly, but in
the latter we were an hour and a half having a lunch of five courses, so
we determined after that experience to order our meal in advance and _à
la carte_. By so doing we saved a great deal of time, but we were obliged
to have it at an unseasonable hour. That did not matter much, as we
altered our hours in accordance with the “Daylight Saving Bill,” and so
profited in various ways. In order to have comfortable time for washing,
without having other people hammering on the door, it was most convenient
to rise at 5 o’clock, and it was equally convenient to go to bed as soon
as it was dark, because all Russian trains economise in light. Even a
first-class carriage has only a single candle for all illumination, and
that is placed in a lantern above the door, so that it only serves to
reveal the darkness.
Leaving Manchuria we passed into the Trans-Baikal province, at the
western side of which lies Lake Baikal, and to our no small surprise and
disappointment, winter still reigned supreme. Beautiful forests of birch
and pine trees broke the monotony of the plains, and drifts of snow still
lingered in the hollows, where sun or wind had failed to chase it. It
was, of course, very different from when we crossed it in February, with
the thermometer at thirty degrees below zero, but we still found winter
clothing necessary, and were bitterly disappointed to see none of the
lovely flowers which transform the dreary plains into flower gardens.
We had been told that the delphiniums were a dream of beauty, but we
saw none, and I imagine the end of May or beginning of June would be a
much better time to travel across Siberia, in spite of the fact that
the trains are then crowded, and it is necessary to secure seats months
beforehand, or trust to getting one that accidentally falls vacant nearer
the time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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