The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian TurkestanKemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
History
The face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian Turkestan
Kemp, E. G. (Emily Georgiana)
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Korea -- Description and travel; Manchuria (China) -- Description and travel
Irkutsk is in the centre of the gold district, which attracts also a
somewhat undesirable class of people. It is not, I think, generally
known what a large quantity of gold is found in Siberia, but about five
millions worth is annually sent into Russia. This by no means represents
all that is found, although the Government requires that it should all
pass through Irkutsk, and thence be forwarded to Russia. Smuggling
is reported to be extensively carried on, and a considerable Chinese
population are credited with the bulk of it. The working of the gold
diggings is said by experts to be amazingly primitive. Large fortunes are
both made and squandered in Irkutsk. Not only gold but tea is a great
source of wealth, although the trade in the latter is by no means so
great as it used to be in the old caravan days. At the present time by
far the largest quantity of it is sent round by sea; but there are still
many Russians who believe that the flavour of the tea is spoilt by sea
air, so that the demand for caravan tea continues. It is said that wealth
in Irkutsk is estimated by a man’s furs and by a woman’s furs and jewels.
Curiously enough Sunday labour is entirely prohibited in this town, and
fine and imprisonment may follow the breaking of the law with regard to
buying and selling. Trade is greatly hampered throughout the Russian
Empire by the corruption of officials, of whom there are an incalculable
number; and it is the Jews who form the most successful part of the
trading community. There is always a long halt at Irkutsk station,
varying from one and a half to two and a half hours, for passengers have
to change trains on account of the difference of the line in gauge, and
when travelling by the Russian State Express it is necessary to have
tickets visé-ed and fresh places allotted. On the International you are
saved this because the places are numbered and passengers are required
to keep the same number in both trains, so there is no confusion in
having the luggage transferred from one to the other. Having to get
fresh ones was decidedly tiresome, as there seemed to be no method in
the madness of the officials, their knowledge of other languages than
their own was almost nil, and their slowness phenomenal. One of our
English fellow-passengers seemed to have a great deal to say, and knew
no Russian, so he had secured the services of a Chinese waiter from the
restaurant car who acted as interpreter with complete success. I do not
think I am wrong in saying that the issuing of fresh tickets took more
than three-quarters of an hour, and confusion reigned in the train for
more than double the time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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