It was nearing sunset now, and a long mountain-climb was ahead of us,
and one more visit that evening, before we should begin our return to
Castlebay, and so after this story we said a hearty good-bye to Donald,
with regret at leaving him. When we reached the mountain-side, one of
the rarest of Barra's sights greeted us. To the north and south in the
golden glow of a September twilight we saw the long line of the Outer
Hebrides like the rocky backbone of some submerged continent. The scene
and colours on the land and ocean and in the sky seemed more like some
magic vision, reflected from Faerie by the 'good people' for our
delight, than a thing of our own world. Never was air clearer or sea
calmer, nor could there be air sweeter than that in the mystic
mountain-stillness holding the perfume of millions of tiny blossoms of
purple and white heather; and as the last honey-bees were leaving the
beautiful blossoms their humming came to our ears like low, strange
music from Fairyland.
MARIAN MACLEAN OF BARRA, AND HER TESTIMONY
Our next witness to testify is a direct descendant of the ancient
MacNeils of Barra. Her name now is Marian MacLean; and she lives in the
mountainous centre of Barra at Upper Borve. She is many years younger
than the men who have testified, and one of the most industrious women
on the island. It was already dark and past dinner-time when we entered
her cottage, and so, as we sat down before a blazing peat-fire, she at
once offered us some hot milk and biscuits, which we were only too glad
to accept. And, as we ate, we talked first about our hard climb in the
darkness across the mountains, and through the thick heather-bushes, and
then about the big rock which has a key-hole in it, for it contains a
secret entrance to a fairy palace. We had examined it in the twilight as
we came through the mountain pass which it guards, and my guide Michael
had assured me that more than one islander, crossing at the hour we
were, had seen some of the fairies near it. We waited in front of the
big rock in hopes one might appear for our benefit, but, in spite of our
strong belief that there are fairies there, not a single one would come
out. Perhaps they came and we couldn't see them; who knows?
_Fairies and Fairy Hosts ('Sluagh')._[39]--'O yes,' Marian said, as she
heard Michael and myself talking over our hot milk, 'there are fairies
there, for I was told that the Pass was a notable fairy haunt.' Then I
said through Michael, 'Can you tell us something about what these
fairies are?' And from that time, save for a few interruptions natural
in conversation, we listened and Marian talked, and told stories as
follows:--
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