Monsieur Lebigre was the proprietor of a very fine establishment,
fitted up in the modern luxurious style. Occupying the right-hand
corner of the Rue Pirouette, and looking on to the Rue Rambuteau, it
formed, with its four small Norwegian pines in green-painted tubs
flanking the doorway, a worthy pendant to the big pork shop of the
Quenu-Gradelles. Through the clear glass windows you could see the
interior, which was decorated with festoons of foliage, vine branches,
and grapes, painted on a soft green ground. The floor was tiled with
large black and white squares. At the far end was the yawning cellar
entrance, above which rose a spiral staircase hung with red drapery,
and leading to the billiard-room on the first floor. The counter or
“bar” on the right looked especially rich, and glittered like polished
silver. Its zinc-work, hanging with a broad bulging border over the
sub-structure of white and red marble, edged it with a rippling sheet
of metal as if it were some high altar laden with embroidery. At one
end, over a gas stove, stood porcelain pots, decorated with circles of
brass, and containing punch and hot wine. At the other extremity was a
tall and richly sculptured marble fountain, from which a fine stream of
water, so steady and continuous that it looked as though it were
motionless, flowed into a basin. In the centre, edged on three sides by
the sloping zinc surface of the counter, was a second basin for rinsing
and cooling purposes, where quart bottles of draught wine, partially
empty, reared their greenish necks. Then on the counter, to the right
and left of this central basin, were batches of glasses symmetrically
arranged: little glasses for brandy, thick tumblers for draught wine,
cup glasses for brandied fruits, glasses for absinthe, glass mugs for
beer, and tall goblets, all turned upside down and reflecting the
glitter of the counter. On the left, moreover, was a metal urn, serving
as a receptacle for gratuities; whilst a similar one on the right
bristled with a fan-like arrangement of coffee spoons.
Monsieur Lebigre was generally to be found enthroned behind his counter
upon a seat covered with buttoned crimson leather. Within easy reach of
his hand were the liqueurs in cut-glass decanters protruding from the
compartments of a stand. His round back rested against a huge mirror
which completely filled the panel behind him; across it ran two glass
shelves supporting an array of jars and bottles. Upon one of them the
glass jars of preserved fruits, cherries, plums, and peaches, stood out
darkly; while on the other, between symmetrically arranged packets of
finger biscuits, were bright flasks of soft green and red and yellow
glass, suggesting strange mysterious liqueurs, or floral extracts of
exquisite limpidity. Standing on the glass shelf in the white glow of
the mirror, these flasks, flashing as if on fire, seemed to be
suspended in the air.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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