I was now, as near as I can compute, in the heart of China, about thirty
degrees north of the line, for we were returned from Nankin. I had
indeed a mind to see the city of Pekin, which I had heard so much of, and
Father Simon importuned me daily to do it. At length his time of going
away being set, and the other missionary who was to go with him being
arrived from Macao, it was necessary that we should resolve either to go
or not; so I referred it to my partner, and left it wholly to his choice,
who at length resolved it in the affirmative, and we prepared for our
journey. We set out with very good advantage as to finding the way; for
we got leave to travel in the retinue of one of their mandarins, a kind
of viceroy or principal magistrate in the province where they reside, and
who take great state upon them, travelling with great attendance, and
great homage from the people, who are sometimes greatly impoverished by
them, being obliged to furnish provisions for them and all their
attendants in their journeys. I particularly observed in our travelling
with his baggage, that though we received sufficient provisions both for
ourselves and our horses from the country, as belonging to the mandarin,
yet we were obliged to pay for everything we had, after the market price
of the country, and the mandarin's steward collected it duly from us.
Thus our travelling in the retinue of the mandarin, though it was a great
act of kindness, was not such a mighty favour to us, but was a great
advantage to him, considering there were above thirty other people
travelled in the same manner besides us, under the protection of his
retinue; for the country furnished all the provisions for nothing to him,
and yet he took our money for them.
We were twenty-five days travelling to Pekin, through a country exceeding
populous, but I think badly cultivated; the husbandry, the economy, and
the way of living miserable, though they boast so much of the industry of
the people: I say miserable, if compared with our own, but not so to
these poor wretches, who know no other. The pride of the poor people is
infinitely great, and exceeded by nothing but their poverty, in some
parts, which adds to that which I call their misery; and I must needs
think the savages of America live much more happy than the poorer sort of
these, because as they have nothing, so they desire nothing; whereas
these are proud and insolent and in the main are in many parts mere
beggars and drudges. Their ostentation is inexpressible; and, if they
can, they love to keep multitudes of servants or slaves, which is to the
last degree ridiculous, as well as their contempt of all the world but
themselves.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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