Now, to go any one of these journeys in the winter would have been
preposterous; for as to Dantzic, the Baltic would have been frozen up and
I could not get passage; and to go by land in those countries was far
less safe than among the Mogul Tartars; likewise, as to Archangel in
October, all the ships would be gone from thence, and even the merchants
who dwell there in summer retire south to Moscow in the winter, when the
ships are gone; so that I could have nothing but extremity of cold to
encounter, with a scarcity of provisions, and must lie in an empty town
all the winter. Therefore, upon the whole, I thought it much my better
way to let the caravan go, and make provision to winter where I was, at
Tobolski, in Siberia, in the latitude of about sixty degrees, where I was
sure of three things to wear out a cold winter with, viz. plenty of
provisions, such as the country afforded, a warm house, with fuel enough,
and excellent company.
I was now in quite a different climate from my beloved island, where I
never felt cold, except when I had my ague; on the contrary, I had much
to do to bear any clothes on my back, and never made any fire but without
doors, which was necessary for dressing my food, &c. Now I had three
good vests, with large robes or gowns over them, to hang down to the
feet, and button close to the wrists; and all these lined with furs, to
make them sufficiently warm. As to a warm house, I must confess I
greatly dislike our way in England of making fires in every room of the
house in open chimneys, which, when the fire is out, always keeps the air
in the room cold as the climate. So I took an apartment in a good house
in the town, and ordered a chimney to be built like a furnace, in the
centre of six several rooms, like a stove; the funnel to carry the smoke
went up one way, the door to come at the fire went in another, and all
the rooms were kept equally warm, but no fire seen, just as they heat
baths in England. By this means we had always the same climate in all
the rooms, and an equal heat was preserved, and yet we saw no fire, nor
were ever incommoded with smoke.
The most wonderful thing of all was, that it should be possible to meet
with good company here, in a country so barbarous as this--one of the
most northerly parts of Europe. But this being the country where the
state criminals of Muscovy, as I observed before, are all banished, the
city was full of Russian noblemen, gentlemen, soldiers, and courtiers.
Here was the famous Prince Galitzin, the old German Robostiski, and
several other persons of note, and some ladies. By means of my Scotch
merchant, whom, nevertheless, I parted with here, I made an acquaintance
with several of these gentlemen; and from these, in the long winter
nights in which I stayed here, I received several very agreeable visits.
CHAPTER XVI--SAFE ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND
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