He spoke this with so much warmth in his temper, so much earnestness and
motion of his spirits, that it was evident it was the true sense of his
soul; there was no room to doubt his sincerity. I told him I once
thought myself a kind of monarch in my old station, of which I had given
him an account; but that I thought he was not only a monarch, but a great
conqueror; for he that had got a victory over his own exorbitant desires,
and the absolute dominion over himself, he whose reason entirely governs
his will, is certainly greater than he that conquers a city.
I had been here eight months, and a dark, dreadful winter I thought it;
the cold so intense that I could not so much as look abroad without being
wrapped in furs, and a kind of mask of fur before my face, with only a
hole for breath, and two for sight: the little daylight we had was for
three months not above five hours a day, and six at most; only that the
snow lying on the ground continually, and the weather being clear, it was
never quite dark. Our horses were kept, or rather starved, underground;
and as for our servants, whom we hired here to look after ourselves and
horses, we had, every now and then, their fingers and toes to thaw and
take care of, lest they should mortify and fall off.
It is true, within doors we were warm, the houses being close, the walls
thick, the windows small, and the glass all double. Our food was chiefly
the flesh of deer, dried and cured in the season; bread good enough, but
baked as biscuits; dried fish of several sorts, and some flesh of mutton,
and of buffaloes, which is pretty good meat. All the stores of
provisions for the winter are laid up in the summer, and well cured: our
drink was water, mixed with aqua vitae instead of brandy; and for a
treat, mead instead of wine, which, however, they have very good. The
hunters, who venture abroad all weathers, frequently brought us in fine
venison, and sometimes bear's flesh, but we did not much care for the
last. We had a good stock of tea, with which we treated our friends, and
we lived cheerfully and well, all things considered.
It was now March, the days grown considerably longer, and the weather at
least tolerable; so the other travellers began to prepare sledges to
carry them over the snow, and to get things ready to be going; but my
measures being fixed, as I have said, for Archangel, and not for Muscovy
or the Baltic, I made no motion; knowing very well that the ships from
the south do not set out for that part of the world till May or June, and
that if I was there by the beginning of August, it would be as soon as
any ships would be ready to sail. Therefore I made no haste to be gone,
as others did: in a word, I saw a great many people, nay, all the
travellers, go away before me. It seems every year they go from thence
to Muscovy, for trade, to carry furs, and buy necessaries, which they
bring back with them to furnish their shops: also others went on the same
errand to Archangel.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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