In a month of beautiful weather at Etretal, every day was not an
excursion, but every day seemed indeed a picked day. For that matter, as
I lay on the beach watching the procession of the easy-going hours, I
took a good many mental excursions. The one, perhaps, on which I
oftenest started was a comparison between French manners, French habits,
French types, and those of my native land. These comparisons are not
invidious; I don't conclude against one party and in favor of the other;
as the French say, _je constate_ simply. The French people about me were
"spending the summer" just as I had so often seen my fellow countrymen
spend it, and it seemed to me, as it had seemed to me at home, that this
operation places men and women under a sort of monstrous magnifying
glass. The human figure has a higher relief in the country than in town,
and I know of no place where psychological studies prosper so as at the
seaside. I shall not pretend to relate my observations in the order in
which they occurred to me (or indeed to relate them in full at all); but
I may say that one of the foremost was to this effect--that the summer
question, for every one, had been more easily settled than it usually is
at home. The solution of the problem of where to go had not been a
thin-petalled rose, plucked from among particularly sharp-pointed
thorns. People presented themselves with a calmness and freshness very
different from the haggard legacy of that fevered investigation which
precedes the annual exodus of the American citizen and his family. This
impression, with me, rests perhaps on the fact that most Frenchwomen
turned of thirty--the average wives and mothers--are so comfortably fat.
I have never seen such massive feminine charms as among the mature
_baigneuses_ of Etratal. The lean and desiccated person into whom a
dozen years of matrimony so often converts the blooming American girl
has no apparent correlative in the French race. A majestic plumpness
flourished all around me--the plumpness of triple chins and deeply
dimpled hands. I mused upon it, and I concluded that it was the result
of the best breakfasts and dinners in the world. It was the corpulence
of ladies who are thoroughly well fed, and who never walk a step that
they can spare. The assiduity with which the women of America measure
the length of our democratic pavements is doubtless a factor in their
frequent absence of redundancy of outline. As a "regular boarder" at the
Hotel Blanquet--pronounced by Anglo-Saxon visitors Blanket--I found
myself initiated into the mysteries of the French dietary system. I
assent to the common tradition that the French are a temperate people,
so long as it is understood in this sense--that they eat no more than
they want to. But they want to eat so much! Their capacity strikes me as
enormous, and we ourselves, if we are less regulated, are certainly much
more slender consumers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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