Separating the town from the north beach, stretch the denes--a broad
strip of grassy sand, on which fishing-nets are dried. Parallel with
the denes is the gray sea-wall; and beyond the wall a shingle beach,
low-lying and defended at intervals by breakwaters. Here the waves are
continually attacking: on the calmest day there is anger in their moan.
From far away one can hear the scream of pebbles dragged down as the
waves recede, the long sigh which follows the weariness of defeat, and
the loud thunder as the water hurls itself in a renewed attack along the
coast. On the denes stands a lighthouse, warning vessels not to come too
close; for, when the east wind lashes itself into a fury, the sea leaps
the wall and pours across the denes to the foot of the town, like an
invading host. A vessel caught in the tide-race at such a time, is flung
far inland and left there stranded when the waves have gone back to
their place. Facing the denes, lying several miles out in the German
Ocean, are a line of sand-banks; between them and the shore is a
channel, known as the Ransby Roads, which affords safe anchorage to
vessels. Beyond the Roads and out of sight, lies the coast of Holland.
I turned my steps to the northward, passing through the harbor where
groups of ear-ringed fisher-folk were unloading smacks, encouraging one
another with hoarse, barbaric cries. I stopped now and then to listen to
the musical sing-song conversation of East Anglia, so neighborly and so
kindly. Here and there mounds of silver herring gleamed in the morning
sunshine. The constant sound of ropes tip-tapping as the breeze stirred
them, sails flapping and water washing against wooden piles, filled the
air with the energy and adventure of sturdy life.
The exultation of living whipped the wildness in my veins. As I left
the harbor, striking out across the denes, I caught the sound of
breakers--the long, low rumble of revolt. Girls were at work, their hair
tumbled, their skirts blown about, catching up nets spread out on
the grass beneath their feet and mending the holes. Some of them were
singing, some of them were laughing, some of them were silent, dreaming,
perhaps, of sailor-lovers who were far away.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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