The Gates of India: Being an Historical NarrativeHoldich, Thomas Hungerford, Sir
History
The Gates of India: Being an Historical Narrative
Holdich, Thomas Hungerford, Sir
Afghanistan -- Description and travel; Balochistan (Pakistan) -- Description and travel
The direct distance between Khotan and Balkh is not less than 700
miles, and 700 miles of such a mountain wilderness as would be
involved by the passing of the Pamirs into the valley of the Oxus and
the plains of Badakshan would represent 900 to 1000 of any ordinary
travelling. And yet there appear to be indications of a close
connection between these two centres of Buddhism. The great temple a
mile or two to the west of Khotan, called the Nava Sanghârâma, or
royal new temple, is the same as that to the south-west of Balkh,
according to a later traveller, Hiuen Tsiang, while the kings of
Khotan were said to be descended from Vaisravana, the protector of the
Balkh convent. No modern traveller has crossed Badakshan from the
Pamirs to Balkh, but the general conformation of the country is fairly
well ascertained, and there can be no doubt that the journey would
occupy any pilgrim, no matter how devout and enthusiastic, at least
two and a half months, and another month would be required to traverse
the road from Balkh _via_ Hiabak, or Baiman, over the Hindu Kush to
Kabul.
Now we are told that Fa Hian journeyed twenty-five days to the Tsen-ho
country, from whence, by marching four days southward, he entered the
Tsungling mountains. Another twenty-five days' rugged marching took
him to the Kie-sha country, a country "hilly and cold" in "the midst
of the Tsungling mountains," where he rejoined his companions who had
started for Ki-pin. It is therefore clear that he did not rejoin them
at Kabul, nor could they have gone there; and the question
arises--Where is Kie-sha? The continuation of Fa Hian's story gives
the solution to the riddle. Another month's wandering from Kie-sha
across the Tsungling mountains took him to North India. It was a
perilous journey. The terrors of it remained engraved on the memory of
the saint after his return to his home in China. Great "poison
dragons" lived in those mountains, who spat poison and gravel-stones
at passing pilgrims, and few there were who survived the encounter.
The impression conveyed of furious blasts of mountain-bred winds is
vivid, and many travellers since Fa Hian's time have suffered
therefrom. "On entering the borders" of India he came to a little
country called To-li. To-li seems to be identified beyond dispute with
Darel, and with this to guide us we begin to see where our pilgrims
must have passed. Fifteen days more of Tsungling mountain-climbing
southwards took him to Wuchung (Udyana), where he remained during the
rains. Thence he went "south" to Sin-ho-to (Swat), and finally
"descended" into Gandara, or the Upper Punjab.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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