The Gates of India: Being an Historical NarrativeHoldich, Thomas Hungerford, Sir
History
The Gates of India: Being an Historical Narrative
Holdich, Thomas Hungerford, Sir
Afghanistan -- Description and travel; Balochistan (Pakistan) -- Description and travel
Christie gives us but small detail of his adventures. He necessarily
suffered much from thirst, but met with no serious encounters. Beyond
a well-deserved tribute to the sweet beauty of that picturesque
wayside town of Anardara in his careful record of his progress
northward from Seistan, where he made Jalalabad (which he calls
Doshak) his base for further exploration, he says very little about
the country he passed through. Incidentally he mentions Pulaki
(Poolki) as a very remarkable relic of past ages. He describes the
ruins of this place as covering an area of 16 square miles. Ferrier
mentions the same place subsequently, and locates it about a day's
march to the north of Kala-i-Fath (which Christie did not visit), and
it must have been one of the most famous of mediæval towns in Seistan.
But as collective ruins covering an area of 500 square miles have been
noted by Mr. Tate, the surveyor of the late Seistan mission, who
camped in their midst to the north of Kala-i-Fath, the exact site of
Pulaki may yet require careful research before it is identified.
Seistan is the land of half-buried ruins. No such extent of ruins
exists anywhere else in the world. It seems probable, therefore, that,
like the sites of many another ancient city of Seistan, Pulaki has
been either partially or absolutely absorbed in the boundless sea of
desert sand, which envelops and hides away each trace of the past as
its waves move forward in irresistible sequence before the howling
blasts of the north-west.
Christie's route through Seistan followed the track connecting
Jalalabad on the Helmund with Peshawaran on the Farah Rud in dry
seasons, but which disappears in seasons of flood, when the two hamúns
or lakes of Seistan become one. Pushing on to Jawani he passed
Anardara on April 4, and reached Herat on the 18th. His description of
Herat is of a very general character, but is sufficient to indicate
that no very great change took place between the time of his visit and
that of the 1883 Commission. He was fairly well received, and
remained a month without any incident worthy of note, leaving on May
18 for Persia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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