The Gates of India: Being an Historical NarrativeHoldich, Thomas Hungerford, Sir
History
The Gates of India: Being an Historical Narrative
Holdich, Thomas Hungerford, Sir
Afghanistan -- Description and travel; Balochistan (Pakistan) -- Description and travel
The story of the daily progress of the oriental military camp, and the
daily discussions with Haji Khan, who appeared to be as frank and
childlike in his disclosures of his methods as any chattering booby,
is excellent. There is no doubt that Masson at this time exercised
very considerable influence over his Afghan and Hazara acquaintances,
and he is probably justified in his claim to have prevented more than
one serious row over the everlasting demands for karij. It is to be
noted that two guns were dragged along with this expedition by forced
Hazara labour, eighty men being required for one, and two hundred for
the other, assisted by an elephant. The calibre of the guns is not
mentioned. At a place called Shaitana they were still south of the
Helmund, and in the course of their progress through Besud visited the
sources of the Logar. Near these sources is the Azdha of Besud, the
petrified dragon slain by Hazrat Ali (not to be confused with Azdha of
Bamian), a volcanic formation stretching its white length through
about 170 yards, exhaling sulphurous odours. The red rock found about
its head is supposed to be tinged with blood. The Azdha afterwards
seen and described at Bamian is of "more imposing size."
Another long march (apparently on the road to Ghazni) brought the
expedition to the frontier of Besud, at a point reckoned by Masson as
three marches from the Ghazni district. From here they retraced their
steps and crossed the Helmund at Ghoweh Kol (? Pai Kol), making for
Bamian. This closed the Besud expedition, which, regarded as a
geographical exploration, is still authoritative, no complete survey
of that district having ever been made. From the Helmund they reached
Bamian by the Siah Reg Pass, thus proving the possibility of
traversing that district by comparatively unknown routes which were
"not on the whole difficult to cavalry, though impracticable to
wheeled carriages." The guns were left in Besud, to be dragged through
by Hazaras. It must be remembered that this was early winter, and the
frozen snow rendered the passes slippery and difficult. The aspect of
the Koh-i-Baba (? Babar) mountains, and their "craggy pinnacles"
(which, by reason of their similarity of outline, gave much trouble to
our surveyors in 1882-83) seems to have impressed Masson greatly. The
descent into the Bamian valley was "perfectly easy, and the road
excellent throughout." Masson's contributions to the Asiatic Society
on the subject of Bamian and its "idols" are well known. His
observations were acute, and on the whole accurate. He rightly
conjectured these wonderful relics to be Buddhist, although he never
grasped the full extent of Buddhist influence, nor the extraordinary
width of their occupation in Northern Afghanistan. His conjectures and
impressions need not be repeated, but his somewhat crude sketches of
Bamian and the citadel of Gulgula intensify the regret which I always
feel that a thoroughly competent photographer was not attached to the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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