The Gates of India: Being an Historical NarrativeHoldich, Thomas Hungerford, Sir
History
The Gates of India: Being an Historical Narrative
Holdich, Thomas Hungerford, Sir
Afghanistan -- Description and travel; Balochistan (Pakistan) -- Description and travel
It would be interesting to trace Burnes' route from Peshawar to
Bokhara, _via_ Kabul and Bamian, were it not that we are dealing with
ground already sufficiently well discussed in these pages. Moreover,
Burnes travelled to Kabul in company which permitted him to make
little or no use of his opportunities for original geographical
research. After he left Kabul the vicissitudes and difficulties that
beset him were only such as might be experienced by any recognised
official political mission, and he experienced none of the vexatious
opposition and delay which was so fatal to Moorcroft. _En route_ he
passed through Bamian, Haibak, Khulm, and Balkh; he visited Kunduz,
and identified the tomb of Trebeck at Mazar; and by the light of a
brilliant moon he stood by the grave of Moorcroft, which he found
under a wall outside the city, apart from the Mussulman cemeteries.
The three days passed at Balkh were assiduously employed in local
investigation and the collection of coins and relics. He found coins,
or tokens, dating from early Persian occupation to the Mogul
dynasties, and he notes the size of the bricks and their shape, which
he describes as oblong approaching to square; but he mentions no
inscriptions.
At this time Balkh was in the hands of the Bokhara chief, and Burnes
was already in Bokhara territory. The journey across the plains to the
Oxus was made on camels, Burnes being seated in a kajawa, and
balancing his servant on the other side. It was slow, but it gave him
the opportunity of overlooking the broad Oxus plain and noting the
general accuracy of the description given of it by Quintus Curtius. As
they approached the Oxus it was found necessary to employ a Turkman
guard. Burnes does not say from what Turkman tribe his guard was
taken, but from his description of them, their dress, equipment, and
steeds, they were clearly men of the same Ersari tribe that was found
fifty years later in the same neighbourhood by the Russo-Afghan
Boundary Commission. "They rode good horses and were armed with a
sword and long spear. They were not encumbered with shields and
powder-horns like other Asiatics, and only a few had matchlocks....
They never use more than a single rein, which sets off their horses to
advantage."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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