The Gates of India: Being an Historical NarrativeHoldich, Thomas Hungerford, Sir
History
The Gates of India: Being an Historical Narrative
Holdich, Thomas Hungerford, Sir
Afghanistan -- Description and travel; Balochistan (Pakistan) -- Description and travel
Vigne's description of the central Sarwandi ridge corresponds
generally with what we know in other parts of the nature of those long
sweeping folds which traverse the central plateau from north-east to
south-west, preserving more or less a direction parallel to the
frontier. He writes of it as a broken and tumbled mass of sandstone,
but about "Dshara" he speaks of gently undulating hills exhibiting
small peaks of limestone and denuded patches of shingle. Between the
Sarwandi and the Dshara ridge the plain was covered with glittering
sand and was sweet with the scent of wild thyme. Somewhere on the
"level-topped" Sarwandi ridge there was said to be the ruins of an
ancient city called Zohaka, with gates of burnt brick, which Vigne did
not see, but in his map he indicates a position for it a long way to
the east of the ridge. It is quite probable that the ruins of more
than one ancient city are to be found in the neighbourhood of this
very ancient highway. Ancient as it is, however, it formed no part of
the mediæval commercial system of the Arabs--a system which apparently
did not include the frontier passes into India; and I have failed to
identify Vigne's Zohaka with any previous indications. These uplands
to the south of Ghazni evidently partake of the general
characteristics of the Wardak and Logar Valleys beyond them,
intervening between Ghazni and Kabul. Vigne was enchanted with the
prospect around him, and with the clear sweet atmosphere filled with
the aroma of wild thyme, wormwood, and the scented willow. It has
charmed many a weary soldier since his time.
At Dshara, finding that the Lohani khafila was not going to Ghazni but
intended to follow a straighter route to Kabul, whilst at the same
time a very ready and profitable business was being done in the
well-populated valleys around, Vigne set off by himself with one
Kizzilbash guide for Ghazni. He says many hard things of the Lohanis
for breaking their promise of escort to Ghazni, remarks which seem
scarcely to accord with his free acknowledgments of their great
kindness to him elsewhere. As the opinion of so observant a traveller,
sharing the trials of the road with a band of native merchants, is
always interesting when it concerns the company with which he was
associated, I will quote his opinion of the Lohanis. "Taking them
altogether, I look on the Lohanis as the most respectable of the
Mahomedans and the most worthy of the notice and assistance of our
countrymen. The Turkish gentleman is said to be a man of his word; he
must be an enviable exception; but I otherwise solemnly believe that
there is not a Mahomedan--Sunni or Shiah--between Constantinople and
Yarkand who would hesitate to cheat a Feringi, Frank or European, and
who would not lie and scheme and try to deceive when the temptation
was worth his doing so," etc. This, of course, includes the Lohanis.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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