The Gates of India: Being an Historical NarrativeHoldich, Thomas Hungerford, Sir
History
The Gates of India: Being an Historical Narrative
Holdich, Thomas Hungerford, Sir
Afghanistan -- Description and travel; Balochistan (Pakistan) -- Description and travel
It is this part of Ferrier's journey which is so tantalizing and so
difficult to follow. He must have travelled both far and fast. Leaving
Saripul on July 11, he rode "ten parasangs," over country very varied
in character, to Boodhi. Now this country has been surveyed, and there
can be no reasonable doubt about the route he took southwards. But no
such place as Boodhi has ever been identified, nor have the
remarkable sculptures which were observed _en route_, fashioned on an
"enormous block of rock," been found again, although careful inquiries
were made about them. They may, of course, have been missed, and
information may have been purposely withheld, for geographical surveys
do not permit of lengthy halts for inquiry on any line of route.
Ferrier's description of them is so full of detail that it is
difficult to believe that it is imaginary. He mentions that on the
plain on which Boodhi stood, "two parasangs to the right," there were
the "ruins of a large town," which might very possibly be the ruins
identified by Imam Sharif (a surveyor of the Afghan Boundary
Commission), and which would fix the position of "Boodhi" somewhere
near Belchirag on the main route southward to Ghur. Belchirag is about
55 miles from Saripul. The next day's ride must have carried him into
the valley of the Upper Murghab on the Firozkohi plateau, crossing the
Band-i-Turkistan _en route_, and it was here that he met with such a
remarkable welcome at the fortress of Dev Hissar.
Ferrier describes the valley of the Upper Murghab in terms of rapture
which appear to be a trifle extravagant to those who know that
country. No systematic survey of it, however, has ever been possible,
and to this day the position of Dev Hissar is a matter of conjecture,
and the charming manners of its inhabitants (so unlike the ordinary
rough hospitality of the men and the unobtrusive character of the
women of the Firozkohi Aimak) are experiences such as our surveyors
sighed for in vain! As a mere guess, I should be inclined to place Dev
Hissar near Kila Gaohar, or to identify it with that fort. At any
rate, I prefer this solution of the puzzle to the suggestion that Dev
Hissar and its delightful inhabitants, like the previous sculptures,
were but an effort of imagination on the part of this volatile and
fascinating Frenchman.
There is always an element of suspicion as to the value of Ferrier's
information when he deals with the feminine side of Hazara human
nature. For instance, he asserts that the Hazara women fight in their
tribal battles side by side with their husbands. This is a feature in
their character for independence which the Hazara men absolutely deny,
and it is hardly necessary to add that no confirmation could be
obtained anywhere of the remarkable familiarity with which the ladies
of Hissar are said by Ferrier customarily to treat their guests.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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