The Glaciers of the Alps: Being a narrative of excursions and ascents, an account of the origin and phenomena of glaciers and an exposition of the physical principles to which they are relatedTyndall, John
Science
The Glaciers of the Alps: Being a narrative of excursions and ascents, an account of the origin and phenomena of glaciers and an exposition of the physical principles to which they are related
Tyndall, John
Alps -- Description and travel; Glaciers -- Alps
Twice or thrice had my guide warned me that we must think of descending,
for the snow continued to fall heavily, and the loss of our track would
be attended with imminent peril. We therefore packed up, and clambered
downward among the crags of the summit. We soon left these behind us,
and as we stood once more upon the kamm, looking into the gloom beneath,
an avalanche let loose from the side of an adjacent mountain shook the
air with its thunder. We could not see it, could form no estimate of its
distance, could only hear its roar, which coming to us through the
darkness, had an undefinable element of horror in it. Lauener remarked,
"I never hear those things without a shudder; the memory of my brother
comes back to me at the same time." His brother, who was the best
climber in the Oberland, had been literally broken to fragments by an
avalanche on the slopes of the Jungfrau.
We had been separate coming up, each having trusted to himself, but the
descent was more perilous, because it is more difficult to fix the heel
of the boot than the toe securely in the ice. Lauener was furnished with
a rope, which he now tied round my waist, and forming a noose at the
other end, he slipped it over his arm. This to me was a new mode of
attachment. Hitherto my guides in dangerous places had tied the ropes
round _their_ waists also. Simond had done it on Mont Blanc, and Bennen
on the Finsteraarhorn, proving thus their willingness to share my fate
whatever that might be. But here Lauener had the power of sending me
adrift at any moment, should his own life be imperilled. I told him that
his mode of attachment was new to me, but he assured me that it would
give him more power in case of accident. I did not see this at the time;
but neither did I insist on his attaching himself in the usual way. It
could neither be called anger nor pride, but a warm flush ran through me
as I remarked, that I should take good care not to test his power of
holding me. I believe I wronged my guide by the supposition that he made
the arrangement with reference to his own safety, for all I saw of him
afterwards proved that he would at any time have risked his life to save
mine. The flush however did me good, by displacing every trace of
anxiety, and the rope, I confess, was also a source of some comfort to
me. We descended the kamm, I going first. "Secure your footing before
you move," was my guide's constant exhortation, "and make your staff
firm at each step." We were sometimes quite close upon the rim of the
kamm on the Lyskamm side, and we also followed the depressions which
marked our track along the cornice. This I now tried intentionally, and
drove the handle of my axe through it once or twice. At two places in
descending we were upon the solid ice, and these were some of the
steepest portions of the kamm. They were undoubtedly perilous, and the
utmost caution was necessary in fixing the staff and securing the
footing.
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