The glory of the PharaohsWeigall, Arthur E. P. Brome (Arthur Edward Pearse Brome)
History
The glory of the Pharaohs
Weigall, Arthur E. P. Brome (Arthur Edward Pearse Brome)
Egypt -- Antiquities
At the point where the causeway passes the boulder the hard surface of
the upper desert literally bristles with countless little heaps of
stones, each consisting of a small upright slab of rock held in place by
two or three others. Fragments of pottery indicate that a bowl, perhaps
containing water, had been placed beside each pile. Here, then, are the
memorials of the travellers who set out for distant Arthet from the fair
city on the island, which may from this point be seen floating in the
blue waters of the Nile below. These stones are the prayers of those who
asked a prosperous journey from the gods of their city: from the old
ram-headed Khnum who lived in the dark caverns below the Nile; from
Satet, the horned goddess whose bow and arrows were the terror of her
enemies; and from Anuket with the crown of lofty feathers. For a short
distance one may follow the paved road, now, as it passes southwards and
westwards amidst the blackened rocks and golden sand-drifts of this
lifeless land; but presently it tops a deeply shadowed ridge of rock and
sand, and so descends into, and is lost amidst, the wide, undulating
desert, ablaze with the light of the setting sun.
There are not many persons who will find themselves able to follow the
road by camel, as I did, or to take ship up the Nile, to Arthet, in
order to see the terminus of the first part of the highway. The road
descends to the river behind the rich fields of the straggling village
of Tomâs, near Derr, the present capital of Lower Nubia. The scenery
here is beautiful in the extreme. A short distance down-stream a bluff
of rock, projecting to the water’s edge, and half-covered with
drift-sand, marks the probable boundary between Arthet and Sethu. One
might slide here from the top of the bluff down the golden slopes to the
verdant thorn-bushes which dip towards the river, and from either side
of the track one’s figure would be seen sharply against the deep blue of
the sky. Sliding, one would see on the left the rocks and the sand of
Sethu, and distantly the superb array of the mountains of Wawat; while
on the right the green bay into which the road descended would lie
spread as a feast to the eye. Farther up-stream a wooded island rests
upon the mirror of the Nile, whither the inhabitants must often have
fled at the approach of the Egyptians from the desert.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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