The glory of the PharaohsWeigall, Arthur E. P. Brome (Arthur Edward Pearse Brome)
History
The glory of the Pharaohs
Weigall, Arthur E. P. Brome (Arthur Edward Pearse Brome)
Egypt -- Antiquities
A ride of somewhat over an hour brought us to the edge of the desert,
which here lies in an undulating expanse of sand leading back gradually
to the low hills. In front of us opened the wide valley known as Wady
Assiout, and it was along this that we intended to ride. Our objective
was a disused alabaster quarry which lay in a rocky gauge leading off
the left or north side of the valley; and to this we directed our way,
leaving on our right the little police outpost which here stands baking
in the sun on the edge of the desert. We had not ridden far when my
camel nearly trod upon a jackal which had evidently been fast asleep in
a slight hollow of sand in the open plain. It sprang up, but went off at
a very moderate pace, while we galloped our unwieldy camels after it,
hallooing as we went. However, it soon outran us, and pulled up tamely
to watch us when we turned back to our path.
I think our tracker believed us to be insane; and if either of us broke
into a song thereafter, or did any unusual thing as we jogged along, he
eyed us suspiciously and perhaps a little pityingly. Mounted upon a
trotting camel it is very difficult to refrain from doing eccentric
things. The camel requires no attention, the saddle is comfortable; and
there is no chance of falling off. Thus, having nothing to do but jolt
along contentedly, one is apt (for example) to begin to admire one’s
feet which are crossed upon the camel’s neck. A rearrangement of the
bootlaces may ensue, and the consequent contortions are uncommonly like
those of a demented acrobat. Or again, one may take to hitting the flies
off the camel with one’s stick; and if the slaughter of a certain fly
settled upon the camel’s nose is determined upon the necessary antics
may be truly amazing. It may be discovered suddenly that by opening
one’s mouth wide the tearing wind will play a tune upon the teeth; or
again the natural exuberance of physical motion will set one whistling
or singing in the noisiest manner. All such actions, silently watched by
the native, give good cause for his inward comments; and when they are
considered in relation to the hour of the day at which we are given to
moving abroad, the tracker’s point of view can be appreciated. After
all, two Englishmen who ride out into the hell-hot wilderness at midday
in August, and who make wild noises at the sight of a jackal, and
whistle extraordinary snatches of song with the perspiration running
down their faces, are not easily explicable to foreigners of any
nationality or colour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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