The glory of the PharaohsWeigall, Arthur E. P. Brome (Arthur Edward Pearse Brome)
History
The glory of the Pharaohs
Weigall, Arthur E. P. Brome (Arthur Edward Pearse Brome)
Egypt -- Antiquities
Then a stumbling step would bring the attention down to the pathway once
more, where a lizard, scuttling away over the stones, would direct one’s
glance into some shadowed cranny where the creepers flowered amongst the
gravel. At intervals along the path small piles of stones had been
placed upon the rocks at the wayside, either to mark the road or to act
as the record of the passage of a pilgrim, this latter being the custom
obtaining amongst desert people from remote times, though I have never
been able to ascertain clearly whether it has a religious origin.
Guiding ourselves by these little heaps when the path was obscure, at
length we came, quite suddenly, upon the Coptic ruins to which the
pilgrims were wont to journey; and here we dismounted for a few minutes.
High upon a ledge of rock, a hundred feet from the valley, a small,
ruined building of unburnt bricks clung perilously to the cliff, and
marked the site where a forgotten Coptic hermit had dwelt in the early
centuries of the Christian era. A chimney in the rock appears to have
led up to it, for there is some more brickwork to be seen here. But
probably a rope-ladder against the face of the cliff was also used, for
these anchorites were not uncommonly as agile as they were saintly,
choosing to live, as they so often did, in inaccessible caverns, or on
the perilous topes of ruined temples, or even upon the capital of an
ancient column. Upon the shelving cliff-side ran a ledge of rock, a
continuation of that on which the building was erected. This had been
made into a kind of promenade about a hundred yards in length, blocked
at the far end by a stout wall. A low fender of stone passed along the
brink of the ledge, thus preventing the danger of a headlong fall into
the valley below on the part of the star-gazing hermit, who,
presumably, took his daily constitutional at this fine elevation.
In honour of the saint, as it would appear, a small chapel had been
built at the foot of the cliff; and, though this is now much ruined, two
of its arches, constructed of thin, red bricks, are still intact, and
some of the white-washed walls are yet standing. Near this chapel there
are the much-destroyed ruins of what seems to have been a small monastic
settlement, perhaps founded in honour of the hermit of the cliff
dwelling; but very little now remains of the settlement.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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