The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and PatagoniaSpears, John Randolph
History
The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and Patagonia
Spears, John Randolph
Patagonia (Argentina and Chile) -- Description and travel
When Darwin was in Patagonia he wrote some pages about the guanaco,
paying considerable attention to its swiftness, its peculiar shape,
which indicated that it was really the humpless camel of the South
American desert, and its curious cry when alarmed, the exact neigh of a
horse. But more interesting than all this was a habit which he believed
it had when about to die. Along the Rio Santa Cruz he found the ground
under the brush actually heaped up with the bones of the guanaco. Animal
after animal had crawled in under the brushy shrubs, and, lying down
upon the bones of others that had come there before it, had breathed its
last. He also noticed that when a guanaco was wounded by a bullet it
immediately headed for the river. The same habit was observed on the
Rio Gallegos, but in no other place than these two valleys.
With Darwin's words as a text, Mr. W. H. Hudson, whose _Naturalist in La
Plata_ is the most interesting work on natural history ever written, has
taken the trouble to reason out the cause for what he says "looks less
like an instinct of one of the inferior creatures than the superstitious
observance of human beings, who have knowledge of death and believe in a
continued existence after dissolution; of a tribe that in past times had
conceived the idea that the liberated spirit is only able to find its
way to its future abode by starting at death from the ancient dying
place of the tribe or family, and thence moving westward, or skyward, or
underground, or over the well-worn immemorial track, invisible to
material eyes."
With this uppermost in mind, I made haste on reaching Santa Cruz to ask
the gauchos and other citizens for horses and a guide to the nearest
guanaco cemetery, but they did not understand me. So I got Hudson's book
and showed them the picture of the dying guanaco, and translated as well
as small knowledge of Spanish would enable, his touching description of
the animal in the place of skulls. By and by they understood, and with
one voice said:
"It is not so."
"But the bushes and bones are there--thousands of skeletons."
"Without doubt."
"Why, then, do you say the guanaco does not go there to die, or to
escape an imaginary evil? Why does he go there?"
"It is very simple. We stand now in the lee of this house because the
wind is very cold. Almost one winter in three the wind is much
colder--there is a terrible winter. There is much snow, and ice over the
snow. Every place on the mesa is covered. To escape the cold storms the
guanacos seek the shelter of the bushes. The storm continues many days.
They can find no food; they cannot leave the shelter. So they die of
starvation, one lying over another. Every plainsman has seen a thousand
dead guanacos under the bushes after such a winter, not only here but in
the cordillera as well."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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