The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and PatagoniaSpears, John Randolph
History
The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and Patagonia
Spears, John Randolph
Patagonia (Argentina and Chile) -- Description and travel
Down at the Rio Gallegos I found two more English-speaking tramps. Both
claimed Punta Arenas as their home, and both spoke of it as the chief
centre of the world's delights. Both were miners, they said, and they
had come from the low-tide diggings a few leagues down the beach. Both
had been sailors at one time and shepherds at another, and both were
about as worthless as any vagabonds I ever saw. They were there during
all the time of my stay, and they took pains to speak to me at every
opportunity. They said each day they were going to start the next day
for the strait colony, but I guess they remained where they were until
the authorities forced them away.
That the tramps were numerous enough at Gallegos to be considered a
public nuisance was evident from the fact that copies of a tramp
ordinance were posted conspicuously in the bar-rooms. This provided that
all persons found within the town limits who were without occupation or
employment or means of support, and any one found begging should be
arrested by the police, and on conviction before the Justice set to work
"on any public improvements that the magistrate may direct for not more
than two months."
I called the attention of one of the tramps I met to this ordinance.
"I twigged it the first day," he said. "I haven't done much but lie
around and twig things since I came, but I've got an occupation. Yes,
sir, I'm a miner, and I'm here to buy horses for the outfit down the
beach. Just as soon as I can get a herd of $50 horses together at $20
each I shall cut this town dead."
Inquiry at the various ports showed that professional tramping in
Patagonia had developed from a variety of causes. In the north the
old-time professional loafers simply extended their journey from the
capital city to the Rio Negro. It seems that cattle and sheep breeding
have in some way a strong tendency to make men over-hospitable. On the
pampas of the Argentine, in the sheep stations of Australia, and among
the ranches of the American prairies the wayfarer is not only welcome,
but is made to feel that he is so. In the United States the abuse of
this hospitality has pretty well destroyed its old-time heartiness. The
Yankee ranchman now wants to know the character of his guests before
making them welcome. In the Argentine known loafers are invited in. Men
are found there who own horses and ride about from ranch to ranch, never
doing a stroke of work from one year to another, and yet are made
welcome at a single ranch table for weeks and months at a stretch. I
have never heard of such a custom elsewhere, except in Australia. These
pampa vagabonds have extended their routes to the Rio Negro ranches
since the destruction of the Indians made it possible to settle the Rio
Negro valley.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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