The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and PatagoniaSpears, John Randolph
History
The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and Patagonia
Spears, John Randolph
Patagonia (Argentina and Chile) -- Description and travel
On the whole, a more cheerless life than that of the people of this
austral capital would be hard to imagine. They do not work. They do not
read. They do not converse more than is necessary. They neither flirt,
frolic, fight, nor fish. They have no interest in botany or zoology, and
they keep no record in meteorology. Their interest in geology is
confined to the finding of pay dirt, and they look for that in only the
most desultory and cursory manner. A stay of three days is, in winter at
least, enough to make any one agree that "nobody gets pay enough here to
make it worth while staying." Even the chance of enclosing a shed at a
cost of $20,000 would not keep a Yankee there much longer than the time
needed to enclose a shed.
ON A BEAGLE CHANNEL RANCH.
From Ushuaia we steamed away east for thirty miles, and there found, as
the sailors said, that the mountains on the north side had all fallen
down. In place of lofty peaks and rugged crests of rock, snow, and ice,
there were on the north side low, rounded hills, with luxuriant pastures
and beautiful forests. South and west lay Navarin Island, and this was
one huge ridge that reached far above the clouds. That is to say, the
land on the north of the channel was open to the sun and sheltered from
the fierce, cold storms that came from the colder regions south and
west. The change of climate was remarkable. There was neither snow nor
ice in sight save on Navarin Island and the distant mountain tops, and
even then it did not descend within several hundred feet of the sea.
In the midst of this charming district, living on the shore of a little
bay that afforded excellent anchorage for our steamer, we found the Rev.
Thomas Bridges, the founder of the Ushuaia Mission, but who for seven
years had been engaged here as a ranchman and farmer. All of the pasture
land in sight, and more, too--eight square leagues lying along the
Beagle Channel--belonged to him. On the prairie-like Gable Island he had
a flock of 4500 sheep that needed no other attention than an occasional
visit and shearing in the season. On the mainland he had herds of
cattle, a band of horses, and a great drove of pigs. He had miles of
picket fences enclosing his pastures. He had a great garden patch on a
sunny slope, where all the hardy vegetables grew in profusion and
potatoes attained a size to make the Ushuaia product seem worthless. His
house was a great, two-story frame enclosed with iron--in form and
convenience like the house of an English country gentleman of
wealth--though the appearance, due to the iron, was somewhat _outre_.
There were sheds and storehouses near by, and a pleasant pavilion on the
lawn that overlooked the bay. Afloat was a great lighter for carrying
the produce of the farm to the steamers and the imported goods ashore,
besides a regular fleet of small boats, cutters, and sloops, for
pleasure and for visiting various parts of this estate, with its
twenty-four miles of water front.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account