The road through which we passed during the afternoon exceeded in beauty my wildest dreams. In the open, indeed, the prospect was merely that of a fine breezy, rolling country covered with grass and bushes; but where the winding path led through shady woodland or rustling groves of oil palms, the richness and luxuriance of the vegetation filled me with astonishment and delight. My opportunities for examining the landscape were not indeed great, for our bare-footed carriers covered the rough ground at a pace that was a revelation to me, and kept it up, too, until I was ready to drop with fatigue; and when, towards sunset, we entered a straggling village, I learned from Annan, with profound relief, that this was the end of our day’s march. My trunk had been set down by the carrier against the wall of a house, so I took my seat on it and leaned back with great comfort. Soon a little crowd of women and children gathered round and stood watching me with the expectant interest that a group of rustics at home would manifest in a foreign organ-grinder. I drew out my pipe and filled it to their complete satisfaction, but my matches had become spoiled by the damp of the woodland and would not strike, seeing which, a young woman with a glossy brown baby fastened on to her back, hurried away and presently returned rolling a glowing cinder in the palm of her hand. This she very adroitly laid on the tobacco in my pipe and then blew it softly until it glowed white hot and the smoke ascended in blue clouds, and when I thanked her with some warmth she laid her hands together and curtseyed prettily, murmuring “Ya wura,” and then retired bashfully behind her friends. Suddenly the calf-like voice of Annan was heard, “shooing” the children away from me, and my conductor appeared wreathed in smiles and glorious with rich apparel. For in this short time he had exchanged his rough travelling costume for the garb of ceremony, and now displayed the splendour of a velvet smoking cap, a suit of pink pyjamas, the ankles tucked into a pair of scarlet socks, and carpet slippers of prismatic brilliancy. “You get no servant now, Mr. Englefield,” said he with an oily smile, “but never fear, sah, I shall be your steward and I do you proper.” “You are very good,” said I. “What are we going to do about food? I have had enough kanki for to-day; and where am I to sleep to-night?” “I get you fine dinner, sah--de chief’s wife cook it now--and very fine bed in de chief’s house. But,” here he dropped his voice and pulled a most lugubrious face, “dis headman no good at all. He get a dry eye.” “A dry eye?” I exclaimed. “Yes; he never want to give anyting unless you dash him some money first.” “Well, I don’t expect him to give me food and lodging for nothing. If you pay him what you think right, or what _he_ thinks right, I will let you have it back.” Annan groaned and pulled out of his pocket a gaudy purse which he opened and held upside down.