The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The restaurant is all white and gold, and has a low ceiling, but as
it has a row of windows on two sides I have no doubt it will be quite
cool in summer. The curtains to the windows are of some pleasant
straw-coloured material, with pink spots on it; the carpet is dark. A
glass screen is in front of the lifts which bring the dishes down from
the kitchen at the top of the house. There are two staircases, one, the
main one, from Coventry Street, and another one from Wardour Street,
leading up to the restaurant. The waiters are mostly Germans, who speak
good English, and who have the bearing of drilled men. I have no doubt
that Mr Appenrodt, who at one time sacrificed a growing business to go
back to Germany to do his military training, does not engage any of his
countrymen who have shirked their years of service. The only drawback
to the restaurant that I have noticed is an unavoidable one owing to
the construction of the house, that the personnel of the coffee kitchen
have to pass through the restaurant coming and going about their work.
The people who dine in the restaurant at Appenrodt's seem to belong
to all classes. When I have dined there early I have seen amongst the
customers men and ladies whom I recognised as belonging to the Variety
profession, and who eat an early meal before going to the theatres
where they perform. Many of Appenrodt's countrymen and countrywomen
dine in the restaurant, and the black-coated classes of respectable
Londoners and their womenfolk have already found out how good the food
is there.
Having seen all these things, and feeling sure that Appenrodt, with
his many shops and his restaurants, meant a new power come into the
centre of London, I became curious as to the owner, or owners, of the
name and asked whether it was just a _nom de fantasie_ or whether there
really is such a person in the flesh as a Mr Appenrodt. I was assured
that there was a Mr Appenrodt and that if it would gratify my curiosity
to talk to him he would be very pleased to meet me.
And so it came that I met Mr Appenrodt in his own restaurant, and found
him to be a very quiet, patently sincere German gentleman, with a round
face, pleasant, steady eyes, hair a little thin on the top and a large
dark moustache. He told me across a luncheon-table the story of his
life, and I was able to assure him that other people besides myself
would find the history of his early struggles in England an interesting
one.
He was born in Berlin in 1867, and, having been a clerk in a Hamburg
shipping agency, came to this country when he was nineteen years old to
learn the English language. He soon found a billet in a City office, as
correspondence clerk at a pound a week, and he determined to stay in
England, though his father, who was a spirit distiller, wished him to
return to Germany and the distillery.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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