The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
"These Gattis don't understand our English ways of doing business"--and
that was the beginning and the end of our great military melodrama. But
I had made the acquaintance of the Gattis, and was always afterwards on
very pleasant terms with them.
It is not within the scope of this article to deal with the Gattis'
enterprises in theatres, but the tale of their purchase of the
Vaudeville Theatre should be told as an instance of their kindness
of heart. Amongst the many Gatti enterprises was the establishment
of a great electric-light-distributing business. This began with a
very small installation in the cellars of the Adelaide Gallery, and
increased and increased until it is now one of the greatest electric
light companies in London. At one time the electric light plant was
established in a building just behind the Vaudeville Theatre, and Mr
Tom Thorne, the actor, whose management had not prospered greatly,
told the Messrs Gatti that his ill-success of late was owing to the
noise the engines made behind the stage. Messrs Gatti, to obviate this
grievance, bought the theatre, or at least as much of it as is freehold.
There always has been a strong theatrical element amongst the clientele
of Gatti's, and the authors who wrote the Adelphi melodramas--Dion
Boucicault, Henry Pettitt, George R. Sims, Robert Buchanan and
others--used constantly to be amongst the people lunching and dining
in the Gallery. In their theatrical enterprises the Gattis never
forgot the Adelaide Gallery, and the one thing essential in an Adelphi
melodrama was that it should conclude in time to allow the audience
to sup at the restaurant. All the black-coated classes patronised the
Gallery, from the comfortable business man, who got as good a chop
there in the evening as he did in his City restaurant in the middle
of the day, to the little clerk who took the girl he was engaged to
there because she liked the music and the brightness of the place. The
country cousins all knew Gatti's, and knew that it was a place where
they would get a good meal at a reasonable price, and that no advantage
would be taken of their ignorance of London charges. Salvini, the great
actor, used to take his meals at Gatti's when he was in England, and
the great Lord Salisbury had a fondness for a chop and chips, and used
to gratify it by going to the Adelaide Gallery. An old Garibaldian, a
fine, white-haired old gentleman in a slouch hat and a long, threadbare
cloak, was the most remarkable of the clientele of Gatti's in the early
eighties; he was evidently very poor and one dish with him constituted
a meal, but because he had fought as a red-shirted hero, the waiters
at Gatti's treated him with more deference than they would show to any
prince, and took the copper he gave as a tip with as much gratitude as
they would have expressed for the gold of the millionaire.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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