The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
In the pre-railway days the Compleat Angler looked for its patrons
amongst the fishermen and the simple folk who gained their living
on the river. The hotel to-day is one of the most comfortable
old-fashioned riverside inns between Oxford and London, an inn that
stoutly upholds its old English characteristics. The brown roofs of
the old building and its old brick walls are still there, and the
old fruit-trees of the orchard give shade on its lawn; but new wings
have been built on as the custom of the hotel has increased, and the
great stretch of delightful garden behind the hotel, from which there
is a glorious view of the Quarry Woods, must be a comparatively new
addition. Mr Kilby, the present landlord, his face tanned by the river
air and river sunshine, his hair and moustache almost white, has been
in possession of the house for twenty-two or twenty-three years; but
before this time it had been in the hands of one family from generation
to generation, right back into the misty past. Mr Kilby has kept the
hotel Old English in character in all essential particulars. There
is good black old oak panelling in the little hall, and Jacobean
furniture and an old grandfather clock, and on its walls, in glazed
cases, are monster perch and other giants of the Thames caught at
Marlow, and engravings of local celebrities and local magnates of past
days; while in the dining-room are caricatures by Gillray and other
wielders of the pencil in Georgian days. The gardens, kitchen garden
and flower garden and lawns, behind the house, are also delightfully
English, for the flowers that grow there are the Old English flowers,
roses and lilies, stocks and pinks, ladies'-slippers and cherry pie,
and a host of others, flowers that are old friends and which fill the
air with scent on a hot afternoon. There are roses everywhere around
the Compleat Angler. Those who land from their boats pass under a great
arch of roses, and in the garden the roses climb over many bowers--for
"pergola" is a word I hesitate to use in writing of this Old English
pleasance. Honeysuckles grow up the supports of the verandah that gives
shade to the windows of the dining-room, and there are bright flowers
in all the window-boxes. Above all, there is the charm of the river,
the indescribable freshness that always comes with tumbling water, the
delight of the long, trembling reflections thrown by the trees and the
spire of the church across the river, the grace of the white-clad girls
who punt upstream and of the swans that sail quite secure by the edge
of the weir, and the pleasant "lap, lap" of the water as the launches
cut through it. If I wished in one hour to give an American friend an
idea of the charm of the Thames I would take him to the chairs under
the great willow that stands by the weir in the grounds of the Compleat
Angler, and when he had sat in this shade for half-an-hour watching the
calmness of the river and the eddies of the weir stream, the rushes,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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