The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
Walking down Piccadilly, and looking up at the façade of the great
Piccadilly Hotel, a building which has something of the nobility of
a Grecian temple, and something of the heaviness of a county jail, I
had noticed that a grey tent had been put up on the terrace, half-way
up to the heavens, behind the great pillars and the gilded tripods,
and I knew that this meant that as soon as the evenings were warm the
restaurant would cater on the terrace for those who like to dine in the
freshest air obtainable in muggy London.
Some form of covering is a necessity for any roof garden in Central
London, not as a protection from rain or cold, but to deliver diners
from the plague of smuts. Some day, when electricity and gas have
between them driven coal far outside the boundaries of the capital,
it will be possible for Londoners to breakfast under the plane-trees
planted on their roofs, and to look, while they eat, at the roses
climbing on the trellis-work which hides their little pleasance from
the neighbours on the next roof; but in this present year of grace an
open-air meal within the three-mile radius necessitates the blowing of
smuts off each plate as soon as it is put on the cloth, and a great
portion of the conversation of the table talk centres round the black
smudges to be wiped off the diners' noses. The Piccadilly, by pitching
its tent on its terrace, has gone as near to open-air dining as is
possible in our London atmosphere.
It was well that I had added the provision "weather permitting" to
my invitation, for on the evening that my two guests motored up from
their old manor-house near Richmond the sky had clouded over, a misty
rain was falling, and the temperature had dropped to November level.
The dinner-table that would have been reserved for me on the terrace
was cancelled, and a table for three laid in the restaurant of the big
hotel--that very handsome saloon panelled with light wood, with gilded
carving in high relief on the panels, with a blue-and-gold frieze, and
elaborately decorated ceiling and casemented mirrors--a saloon which
is a noble example of Louis XIV. decoration. I had ordered my dinner
beforehand, taking care to include in it some of the specialities of
the kitchen of the Piccadilly, and had interested in the designing of
the little feast M. Berti, the restaurant manager, and the _chef de
cuisine_, M. Victor Schreyeck; while M. Pallanti, one of the _maîtres
d'hôtel_, who is an old acquaintance, had put me in that portion of
the room which is under his special charge. The dishes on which the
kitchen of the Piccadilly especially prides itself are its _délices de
sole_ and its _filets de sole_, both named after the establishment,
its _poularde à l'étuvée au Porto_, its _poularde Reine Mephisto_, its
_cailles Singapore_, and its _vasques_ of peaches, or of raspberries,
or of strawberries, all titled Louis XIV. in sympathy with the
decoration of the room.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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