The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The soup, a white Russian soup with barley as its dominating
ingredient, is one of those peasant soups the French have borrowed from
the Russians, and have refined in promoting it to the _haute cuisine_.
The _sole à la Piccadilly_ is a fish dish which grows to perfection
as it is manipulated before the eyes of the expectant diners. A wide
bath of mixed whisky and brandy boils up over the spirit lamp, and into
this the boiled soles make a plunge before they are carried away to be
filleted; then into the almost exhausted mixture of spirits is poured
the sauce, which is a "secret of the house," and as this boils up first
cream and then butter is added to it. The _filets de sole_ come hot to
table, and over each portion of the fish is poured the precious sauce,
sharp tasting, with a suggestion of anchovy amidst its many flavours.
While this sole was being prepared, "Daddy" at first talked on of polo
matches at Ranelagh and golf at Richmond, and did not notice that both
"The Princess" and myself had become silent, as gourmets should be when
watching a delicate culinary operation, but he, too, after a while felt
the solemnity of the moment, and became dumb until the fish was before
him, and he could pronounce it to be "very good indeed," an emphatic
expression of opinion on the part of all three of us which, I trust,
was conveyed to M. Schreyeck in his domains. The _suprême de volaille_
was a noble _chaudfroid_ of chicken with a rich stuffing or farce, I am
not sure which is the correct description, in which _foie gras_ was the
dominating note. The quails were named after the island of Singapore,
because with them in the china dish came a most savoury accompaniment
of pine-apple pulp and juice--and there are thousands of acres of
pine-apples in Singapore--an admirable contrast to the flesh of the
plump birds. To this dish also our council of three gave high praise.
The bowl of strawberries and ice and fruit flavouring, another of the
dishes of the house, made an admirable ending to a very good dinner,
and with this dinner we drank a champagne strongly recommended by the
house, Irroy 1904. I paid my bill, the total of which came to £3, 13s.
6d., the charge being 12s. 6d. a head for the dinner, which was a small
sum for such delicate fare, and then we went into the lounge, where
the band was still playing, to drink coffee and liqueurs, and to allow
"Daddy" to smoke one of the very long cigars of which he always carries
a supply.
It was still raining when my two guests started in their motor car
back to Richmond, but they declared that they were fortified for their
journey down into the country by a most satisfactory dinner.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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