The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
Every Londoner knows the Pall Mall by sight, the restaurant one door
above the Haymarket Theatre, and is familiar with the lace-curtained
window of its buffet, its entrance and the line of five French windows
with flowers before them on its first floor, and there are few
playgoers who have not, before spending an evening at the Haymarket or
His Majesty's over the way, dined at one time or another at the Pall
Mall Restaurant. It is a restaurant which has prospered exceedingly,
and has done so because its two proprietors, MM. Pietro Degiuli and
Arnolfo Boriani--both ex-head waiters at the Savoy and the Carlton--see
to every detail concerning their restaurant and their kitchen and their
cellar with untiring diligence and with a complete knowledge. They are
both--Degiuli, small and neat and dapper, M. Boriani, broad, wearing a
curled-up moustache and looking like a _tenore robusto_--always in the
restaurant at meal-times doing the work of _maîtres d'hôtel_ and giving
personal attention to every member of their clientele.
In the ten years that have elapsed since they rechristened the
restaurant, which for a short period had been known as Epitaux's, they
have made many improvements. The restaurant itself, a high room with
a curved roof and two sliding skylights in the roof, which not only
let in the light but fresh air as well, is now a white restaurant,
with deep rose panels alternating with mirrors between the pilasters.
There is a little gilding in the decoration, but as carpet and chairs
and lamp-shades conform to the scheme of rose, the restaurant may be
described as all white and deep pink. There was originally a musicians'
gallery at one end of this dining-hall, a legacy from the Café de
l'Europe, as it was called in the fifties, and in the days of the café
the doorway was cased in to prevent draughts reaching the worthies who
used to sup there after the performance at the Haymarket Theatre. The
old wooden screen to the door has been swept away, and people lunch
and dine and sup in the gallery which has replaced the domain of the
musicians. A little lounge where hosts can wait for their guests, made
by absorbing part of the premises of the shop next door, is one of
the most recent additions to the Pall Mall, and the Fly-fishers' Club
having moved to larger premises, MM. Degiuli and Boriani have been able
to construct a banqueting-room on the first floor that, with a private
dining-room which can accommodate twenty diners, gives them now quite a
large establishment.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account