The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The lounge--crimson under foot, with walls light cream in colour, good
copies of portraits by British old masters in panels alternating with
looking-glass doorways; with pillars of buff marble, veined with brown
and having gilt capitals, and bronze amorini and sculptured groups
of the Graces as supports for electroliers--is a delightful room,
as one realises after dinner when the hour of coffee has come. The
band, wearing in the evening their uniform of dark blue, the leader
distinguished by a silver sash--in the daytime they are in crimson--are
in a corner of the lounge close against the crystal screen that
their music may be heard in the restaurant. Arched entrances in the
eastern wall lead into the Winter Garden, another great hall with a
glazed ceiling, with roses climbing up trellis-work, and with a great
recess, up a broad flight of stairs, with pillars of green marble and
a gilded fountain against its wall. The _salon de verdure_, as it
is grandiloquently called, is above the new ballroom, the two great
apartments occupying the space where the courtyard used to be.
My guests of the particular night I am describing were my friend and
old comrade, Pitcher, the editor of _Town Topics_, and his wife and his
pretty daughter. I had determined that they should eat a typical Savoy
dinner, and had been at some pains to obtain a really representative
feast. Before I went away on my travels in the summer I had interviewed
M. Blond, the general manager (who was brought back when he was
half-way to Rome two years ago to take up the management of the Savoy),
in his sanctum, telling him that when in the autumn I intended to
write a couple of chapters concerning the Savoy, I should like to give
a dinner including some of the specialities of the cuisine, and that
I should like to have something descriptive to say as to such of the
dishes of which the Savoy is proud that were not included in my little
feast. We took into our conference M. Rouget, the Maître-Chef of the
Savoy, who looks the genial, burly, contented person that the head of
a great kitchen should be, and we chatted over new dishes and dishes
with new names (which are not the same thing), and he gave me some
particulars of his kitchens and of the great army of cooks employed in
the Savoy, there being as many as two hundred and ten in the brigade.
When, being back again in London, I carried out my intention of asking
my editor to dinner, M. Soi, the manager of the restaurant, came into
counsel. When I had made up my mind on the important matter whether
my dinner should cost twelve-and-six or fifteen-and-six a head, and
had stated that I should like the more expensive feast, I added that I
hoped that no beef would be included in the menu, for Pitcher had been
complaining of preliminary symptoms of gout. M. Soi on the day we were
to dine--a Sunday--submitted to me a menu which I duly initialled as
approved.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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