The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
A most admirable dinner it was, rather long, perhaps, to my taste, but
it would have been difficult to get enough distinctive dishes into
a shorter menu. The _sterlet caviar_ on the little Russian pancakes
made an admirable _hors d'œuvre_; the _consommé_ was of turtle, but
much lighter than the usual turtle soup; the _kapusniack_ is a Russian
soup, in which leeks, celery, turnips, onions, mushrooms, pig's ear,
crushed tomatoes and cabbage seasoned with vinegar play a part, and it
is served with cream stirred into it, and with those little _pâtés_ of
which the Russians are so fond when broken into the soup. The sole was
garnished with fried oysters covered with bread-crumbs, and the _filet
de perdreau_, which was the supreme triumph of the dinner, consisted of
grilled _suprêmes_ of partridges and grilled rashers of bacon dipped
in _poivrade_ sauce. The _noisettes_ were the one plain dish of the
dinner, but the asparagus ends tucked away in the hearts of artichokes
gave it its cachet. The cold chicken filled with a _mousse_ of _foie
gras_ was a very noble dish, and tiny mushrooms, formed from some kind
of _mousse_, which apparently grew amidst the truffles, and slices of
chicken breast which surrounded the white bird adorned with Pompeiian
drawings, were a very happy idea. The nuts soaked in Kummel which
we found in the interior of the pears, which were served with a red
currant ice, was another happy idea much appreciated by the ladies, and
the _canapé esperanza_ proved to be soft roes on toast.
This dinner takes a very high place amongst the many good dinners I
have eaten in my time in the Savoy Restaurant. My bill came to £5, 2s.
Some of the Savoy specialities for which there were not room in one
dinner menu are _huîtres Baltimore_, which are oysters grilled with
bacon; _bortsch Polonaise, homard Miramar, sylphide Savoy,_ which is a
very attractive way of serving lamb sweetbreads; _mignonettes d'agneau
à la Delhi, soufflés belle de nuit,_ which is a variant of the _soufflé
surprise_, peaches and strawberry and vanilla ice being used in it;
and the noble _bécasse à la Soi_, an invention of M. Soi, which is
the breast of a woodcock served with a most delightful sauce on toast
covered with _foie gras_.
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