The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The front of the Restaurant des Gourmets to-day stretches across three
of the houses in Lisle Street, and it has, besides the ground-floor
rooms, quite a spacious restaurant on the first floor, made by throwing
the three rooms of the houses into one. Its ground-floor front is
painted chocolate colour, and its principal entrance, between two
of the houses, is quite imposing, has little Noah's Ark trees and
a _chasseur_ in buttons, stationed there to direct visitors to the
different rooms and to call taxis. The staircase, with brass edges to
the steps and a brass rail, and with walls of white panelling, leads to
the restaurant upstairs, and a little pay-desk, with an opening like
those in a railway ticket office, faces one at the entrance, and it is
here that every visitor pays his bill as he goes out. I looked in at
all three downstairs rooms, which are bright with coloured papers on
their walls, and found all the tables occupied, before I went upstairs
into the larger restaurant. There I found a little table vacant, and
sat down at it with grim apprehension that I might have what scanty
hair I possess on the top of my head blown off, for just above it was
a large electric fan. It was, however, not necessary, the night being
cool, to set this going, and I ate my dinner in a calm atmosphere.
The Gourmets has become quite smart since Madame H. Cosson and her son
succeeded M. Brice in the proprietorship. The upstairs restaurant is
panelled with white woodwork above a green skirting, there are mirrors
in the panelling, and the range of windows looking out on to Lisle
Street have white lace curtains. There is a table in the middle of
the room, and upon it fruits and big-leaved plants and a basket with
bunches of grapes hung invitingly along the handle. Two big stands of
Austrian bent-wood for hats and coats are placed as sentinels on either
side of this table. There is a round-faced clock on the wall to tell
the time, and at intervals notices to say that all drinks must be paid
for in advance, which means, I suppose, that the Gourmets has not yet
obtained a wine and spirit licence. No notice forbidding pipes is now
necessary. The waiters in dress clothes and black ties bustle about,
and when I had given my order for _crème de laitue, cabillaud frit,
poulet au riz, sauce suprême,_ and pudding Gourmets, I looked round at
my fellow-guests to see if I could pick out any celebrities. There was
no M. Brice this time to act as a "Who's Who in Lisle Street," and most
of the people who were dining seemed to me to be young couples. Indeed
from the tables in my vicinity a painter could have limned a series of
pictures of the various stages of matrimony. At the table next to mine
sat a young couple who were still in the holding hands state of love,
who were thinking a great deal about each other and very little about
their dinner, and who ordered anything that the waiter suggested to
them; further on was a couple, each of whom was reading a newspaper,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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