The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The Rubezahl was, in an indirect manner, the parent of the
Restaurant Maxim in Wardour Street, for when the organisers of the
Austro-Hungarian Exhibition at Earl's Court cast about for attractions
which would be in keeping with the spirit of the exhibition it occurred
very naturally to them that an Austrian restaurant where the admirable
plain Austrian dishes could be eaten and where the Hungarian wines and
the cool beer of Pilsen could be drunk would be a pleasant novelty;
and such a restaurant was established opposite to the Welcome Club, and
was eminently successful. And to manage this restaurant the son-in-law
of the proprietor of the Rubezahl came from the Austrian Highlands,
and when King Edward lunched at the restaurant and was given a typical
Austrian meal of "cure food" he recognised M. Maximilian Lurion, the
manager, and chatted with him concerning Marienbad and the Rubezahl.
When Earl's Court had closed its doors for the winter M. Maxim Lurion
was not unwilling to stay in London, and he, in conjunction with a
British syndicate, thought that a site at the corners of Wardour and
Gerrard Streets, which was then in the market, would be a suitable
position for a restaurant. A small public-house carrying a licence
was included in the purchase, and when everything else on the site
was pulled down the business part of the old house of refreshment
stood, looking like a saloon of the Wild West, amidst the ruins. When
a name had to be found for the new restaurant, the shortened form of
M. Lurion's Christian name was chosen, and the building became the
Restaurant Maxim. No doubt Maxim's, in Paris, came by its name in a
like manner, for Maximilian is a very usual name in central and eastern
Europe.
Maxim's has always kept a clean face in a street not remarkable
for smartness, and its white exterior, the touches of gilding on
the wreaths that embellish its outer walls, its rows of mauresque
white-curtained narrow windows on the first floor, its turret domed
with silver, the flowers in its green and gold balconies, and the
commissionaire in a well-fitting coat who stands by the front door,
near the two large menus which set forth what is the dinner of the day,
make it a pleasant feature of the street.
When the Maxim was first opened M. Lurion took me over the
establishment from garret to basement, and showed me how the coffee is
made in Austria, though Austrian coffee never tastes so well in London
surroundings as it does under the little trees of the hill-side cafés
in Carlsbad or Marienbad, or in one of the open-air restaurants in the
Prater of Vienna. The Maxim, however, did not at first fulfil the hopes
of its promoters. Whether its name frightened people or whether it was
too ambitious in its aims I do not know, but it soon changed hands.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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