The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
All the preparations for a Guildhall or a Company banquet, except
the cooking that goes on in the kitchens of the halls, used to be
made in the kitchens below No. 15 Cornhill, and the houses on either
side of it, and it used to be one of the free afternoon sights of the
City to see the kitchen-men carrying out through the little entrance
door the soup and the pastry, the jellies and the cakes for a City
banquet. When two great insurance offices squeezed in on either side of
the pastry-cook's shop, Messrs Ring and Brymer had to look for other
kitchens, and they now have a house in Bunhill Row, where on the top
storey there is a great kitchen for the cooking of the soup and other
delicacies, and where in the basement the turtles spend their last sad
days before being butchered to make a Lord Mayor's holiday. At Bunhill
Row there is also a cosy little office with the arms of many of the
City companies as its wall ornaments.
Old Tom Birch, who was the second of his line, the son of Lucas Birch
who succeeded the Hornton dynasty, was a man of many interests and a
great celebrity of the City. His Christian name was Samuel, but he was
"Tom" in the mouths of all City men. He was Lord Mayor of London in
1814, the only pastry-cook who has ever attained to that high dignity.
He was a great orator, and an enthusiastic supporter of Pitt; he was
Lieut.-Colonel of the first regiment of Loyal London Volunteers raised
at the time of the French Revolution, and he wrote several comedies
which were performed at Covent Garden and Drury Lane. There is still
extant a song of the day, which no doubt in its time had a great
success in City circles, in which a Frenchman coming to London, and
being taken round the sights, is surprised to learn that the colonel of
a regiment he sees on parade is old Tom Birch, the pastry-cook; that a
governor holding forth to the boys at St Paul's School; that an orator
in the Guildhall; and that the author of a comedy at Covent Garden, are
all one and the same estimable old Tom.
A Lord Mayor's Guildhall banquet to-day has all the same outward
pomp and gorgeousness that it had eighty or a hundred years ago.
But a Lord Mayor's banquet, so far as good things to eat and to
drink are concerned, is absolutely different to-day from what it was
half-a-century ago. This is the menu of the feast that Messrs Ring and
Brymer provided on Lord Mayor's day 1913 for the Guildhall banquet. The
baron of beef is, of course, just as much a civic dish as is the turtle
soup, but the dinner is, on the whole, quite a light one:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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