The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
And very excellent indeed Margaret's handiwork proved to be. Our first
dish was of grilled oysters and celery root on thin silver skewers,
and then came one of those delicious quail puddings which are one
of Mrs Lewis's inventions and for which King Edward had a special
liking. There was a whole quail under the paste cover for everyone at
table, with a wonderful gravy, to the making of which go all sorts
of good things and which when it has soaked into the bottom layer of
paste makes that not the least delicate part of the dish. Had not a
turn of the conversation taken Mrs Lewis off to a description of how
beautiful the twins just born to a member of the aristocracy are, I
should have liked to have heard more concerning King Edward's tastes
in cookery, for no one, except, perhaps, M. Ménager, who was his
Majesty's chef, knew them better than did Mrs Lewis, to whom many an
anxious hostess entertaining Royalty for the first time has looked as
her sheet-anchor. A turn of the conversation brought up the name of the
Duke of Connaught, who, I know, has the same admiration for Mrs Lewis's
handiwork that the late King so often expressed. Another appreciative
monarch for whose appetite Mrs Lewis has catered is the Kaiser, for she
ruled the kitchen at Highcliffe Castle during the Emperor's stay there
of three weeks. A personal gift of jewellery marked H.I.M.'s approval.
Mrs Lewis lays it down that three dishes are the right number at any
lunch, for she, like all other really great authorities on gastronomy,
is opposed to a long menu; but she, as great authorities sometimes do,
broke her own rule in giving us, after the quail pie, a dish of chicken
wings in bread-crumbs and kidneys before the pears and pancakes,
an admirable combination, with which our lunch ended. After lunch
Mrs Lewis took the little gathering that had congregated about the
lunch-table for coffee down in the lift to her kitchen, a splendidly
airy and spacious one, running the full length of the three houses,
and with its windows opening out on a courtyard at the back. It is as
cheerful and light and as well ventilated a kitchen as I have seen
anywhere. The rooms which should be cold for the keeping of provisions
are just at the right temperature, the lines of pots and pans shine
brilliantly, and bustling about were half-a-dozen girls of all ages,
from the light-haired Margaret, head of the kitchen, to a little girl
of fourteen, the youngest recruit, all wearing the white caps that
men cooks wear, which form a very becoming head-dress. And Mrs Lewis,
talking of "my girls," as she calls them, told me that she was a year
younger than the youngest of them when she first, with a pig-tail of
hair down her back, began to learn the art of cookery in the kitchen
of the Comtesse de Paris, and she added that she could show me the
character she received from her first place when, as a beginner, she
was earning the large sum of a shilling a week. Her second place was
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