To step for an evening into command of a kitchen, very often over the heads of one or two men cooks, is not always an unmixed pleasure, and Mrs Lewis, who has a very keen sense of humour, told me some of her experiences in some kitchens which will make very amusing reading if ever she writes her reminiscences, as she should do. Sometimes she is asked to build up a tent for some great dinner, which she is ready to do, and she often furnishes it, and ornaments its walls with china and pictures. Sometimes when a host or hostess wishes to entertain many guests to dinner and a ball Mrs Lewis takes a big vacant house and furnishes it for one night, in all the rooms that are seen, as completely as though its owners were still occupying it. "I have made almost as much in the past year out of my gold chairs and my china as I have out of my pots and pans," she told me. She has a little army of devoted waiters who have been at her call for twenty years and who are always ready to serve under her banner. A menu of one of Mrs Lewis's ball suppers, at Surrey House, may well find a place here. She, I believe, first made the great discovery that young men who have danced an evening through prefer eggs and bacon and Lager beer in the small hours of the morning to _pâté de foie gras_ and champagne: _Chaud_. Consommé de Volaille. Cailles Schnitten. Poussin à la Richelieu. Poulet grillé, Pommes soufflées. _Froid._ Petites Crabes. Homard. Truite au Bleu. Poularde en Gelée. Dindonneaux Hezedia. Canard pressé en Parfait. Bœuf et Agneau à la Mode. Mousse de Jambon en Belle-Veu. Asperges. Fraises du Bois Monte Carlo. Mélange de Fruits. Pâtisserie. Café Noir (à deux heures). Grenouilles à la Lyonnaise. Œufs pochés au Lard. Rognons grillés. Pilsener Lager Beer. She has cooked dinners for the regiments of the Household Cavalry when they entertained a sovereign; when a good fellow, now dead, kept open-house for all his friends in the club-room during Warwick Races, Mrs Lewis undertook the difficult task of providing the best of lunches for an unknown number, and she has contracted for many of the feasts of the great Government Departments.