When we were seated I could see some faces of well-known chefs whom I had missed in the press downstairs. There were there, besides the names I have already mentioned, M. Aubin, of the Russell Hotel; M. Espezel, of the Union Club; M. Briais, of the Midland Hotel; M. Grunenfelder, of the Grand Hotel; M. Vicario, of the Carlton; M. Müller, of the Hyde Park Hotel; M. Görog, who was one of the four founders of the Ligue; M. Génie, of Prince's Restaurant; M. Ferrario, of Romano's; M. Vinet, who was for many years chef at "The Rag"; Mr Coumeig, chef to the Duchess of Marlborough; and M. Saulnier, _sous-chef_ of the Piccadilly, a rising star. If all these names are not French names, those amongst the chefs of the Ligue who were not born in France have, by adopting the cult of the Haute Cuisine Française, become naturalised Frenchmen in gastronomy. There are various little ceremonies observed at the dinners of the Gourmands, one of them being that at the commencement of dinner a member of the Ligue rises and reminds his fellow-members that only French wine should be drunk at these banquets. Another little ceremony is that each dish in turn is announced by the toast-master--of course, for this occasion a Frenchman--who rolls his "r's" with fine resonance as in a thunderous voice he tells us what we are going to eat. This was the menu with Escoffier's signature appended to it: Crêpes au Caviar frais. Huîtres pimentées. Croûte au Pot à l'Ancienne. Turban de Filets de Sole au gratin. Chapon fin à la Toulousaine. Cochon de Lait Saint-Fortunat. Pommes Aigrelettes. Sauce Groseille au Raifort. Bécassines Rosées. Salade Lorette. Pâté de foie gras. Biscuit glacé Caprice. Mignardises.