The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
Every Londoner knows the white-faced restaurant almost next door to the
Alhambra in Leicester Square. It is one of the few restaurants that
still retains a bar, though it is nowadays called a buffet, and the
three-and-six dinner which is served in the restaurant is still as it
used to be, a most excellent meal, unstinted, well cooked, and all its
material of excellent quality.
The bar of the buffet has always been a favourite resort of actors, and
it was there that I first heard Arthur Roberts tell the story of "The
Old Iron Pot," a tale the success of which led to the invention of the
game of "Spoof," that masterly feat of bamboozling the guileless which
gave amusement in the eighties to all Bohemia and added a new word to
the English language. The Old Iron Pot figured largely in a tale which
Arthur Roberts never wearied of telling to "Long Jack" Jarvis, another
actor. No one ever heard the beginning of the tale, for it was always
well in progress when the victim of the harmless pleasantry came on
the scene. Arthur was so intent on the story, the other conspirator
so immensely interested, that the new-comer was at once interested
also, dispensed with all greetings, and tried vainly to understand
all the ramifications of the story into which new characters seemed
constantly to come, and which all revolved round an old iron pot.
Jack Jarvis apparently thoroughly understood the story, occasionally
asked questions, and now and then corrected Arthur Roberts as to the
relationship of the various characters, and the other listener very
soon found himself pretending that he too comprehended all the twists
and turns.
Somehow or another, in those days the spirit of harmless practical
joking seemed to be in the atmosphere of the Cavour bar. Perhaps it
was, because in the days when Leicester Square was a waste ground with
the damaged equestrian statue of George the Third in its midst some
practical jokers sallied out one night from the little restaurant which
occupied the site of the bar, to play the best practical joke of the
last century. They painted the statue's horse with red spots, put a
fool's cap on the statue's head, and a long birch broom in the hand
which should have held a field-marshal's baton.
Philippe was the one and only waiter in those days at the little
restaurant which was kept by a Frenchman and his wife. Next door, and
extending behind the restaurant, was a tin shanty, where judge and
jury entertainment was held and _poses plastiques_ were exhibited. It
was a disreputable place, for Brookes, who was its proprietor, and who
had been associated with "Baron" Nicholson at the Coal Hole, had not
the Baron's wit, though he had the same flow of doubtful oratory.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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