The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
I opted for this half-crown meal, and as a preliminary, the waiter
put a tiny cup of soy and a Chinese porcelain spoon by the side of the
European knives and forks and spoons which were already on the table.
A wine list was offered me, but I preferred, as I was going to eat
Chinese meats, to drink Chinese tea with them, and ordered a cup of
Loong Cheng. The plates used at the Chinese restaurant are, like the
cutlery, of European pattern, but the dishes in which the soups and the
meats are brought to table are Chinese ones of all kinds of shapes and
ornamented with Chinese paintings. My soup, with tiny strips of bamboo
in it and morsels of chicken flesh, tasted very much like the chicken
broth that one is given when one is ill and on a low diet. The fried
chicken and vegetables were quite good eating, and the taste of the
bamboo shoots in it was particularly pleasant to the palate. The roast
pork I shied at, and asked instead to be given a plate of chow chow, an
admirable sweet which I have known ever since boyhood, for one of my
uncles, who was Consul at Foo Chow, used to send home to all his small
nephews presents of this delicacy. The tea was excellent, and doing as
the Chinese do, I did not spoil its taste by adding either sugar or
milk to it.
[Illustration]
Altogether my luncheon at the Chinese Restaurant was quite a pleasant
experiment, and I can advise any gourmets who would like to test the
cookery of the Far East in comfortable surroundings to follow my lead.
LV
THE WHITE HORSE CELLARS
A little glass canopy with a clock above it juts out into Piccadilly,
and a tall commissionaire stands at an entrance where some stairs
dive down, apparently into the bowels of the earth. Where the stairs
make their first plunge there is above them on the wall the device of
a white horse--a fine prancing animal, somewhat resembling the White
Horse of Kent.
The stairs, with oak panelling on either side of them, give a twist
before they reach the bottom, where is the modern restaurant that
occupies the site of what were originally known as the New White Horse
Cellars, but which are now called the Old White Horse Cellars, probably
on the _lucus a non lucendo_ principle, for they have been modernised
out of all recognition since the days when Charles Dickens recorded the
departure of Mr Pickwick from these Cellars on his coach journey down
to Bath.
The Old White Horse Cellars were originally on the Green Park side of
Piccadilly, and their number was 156, as some way-bills to be seen at
the present White Horse Cellars testify. This ground is now occupied
by the Ritz Hotel. Strype mentions the original cellar as being in
existence in 1720.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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