The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
It was from Hatchett's that "Jim" Selby started on his celebrated
drive with the Brighton coach, "Old Times," to Brighton and back, for
a wager of a thousand pounds to five hundred against his accomplishing
the journey in eight hours. On the coach were: Selby himself, driving;
Captain Beckett, whom we all called "Partner"; Mr Carleton Blyth,
who still sends yearly from Bude his greeting of "Cheero" to his old
friends; Mr "Swish" Broadwood, Mr "Bob" Cosier, Mr A. F. M'Adam, and
the guard. Harrington Bird's picture of the coach during the galloping
stage, with the horses going at racing pace, gives an idea of how Selby
drove on that day when he had a clear road. The coach reached the "Old
Sip" at Brighton, having done the first half of the journey in just
under four hours; stayed there only long enough to turn the coach
round and to read a telegram from the old Duke of Beaufort, who was
most keenly interested in the revival of coaching, and who was a very
good man himself on the box seat--and then started again for London,
reaching the White Horse Cellars ten minutes under the stipulated time
and forty minutes within the record. I was one of the men amongst the
crowd that gathered to see the return of the coach and to cheer old
"Jim" Selby, who brought his last team in no more distressed than they
would have been doing their journey under ordinary circumstances. How
highly respected Selby was by all coaching men was shown by the long
string of stage-coaches, every coach on the road having suspended its
usual journey, which followed his body to the grave.
In those days the bill of fare at Hatchett's was roast beef or boiled
mutton and trimmings; duck and green peas, or fowl and bath-chap. There
was an inner sanctuary then called "Uncle Tom's Cabin," which was the
bar parlour, into which only the most favoured patrons of the house
were admitted, and Miss Wills, the manageress, used to keep any unruly
spirits very much in order.
When Hatchett's was rebuilt and changed its name it changed hands
very frequently, though the White Horse Cellars always remained a
restaurant. The Cercle de Luxe, a dining club, at one time occupied the
upper floors of the building, and then it became the Avondale Hotel,
with M. Garin as manager and M. Dutruz as chef. Since then the rooms
have been put to many uses, and are now, I see, once again in the
market.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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